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I think if you are going for a classic dry stout, roasted barley is critical. Try to find the lower srm barley (350) and it will take that roastiness down a level. If you use that then you have almost my exact irish stout recipe

Ive made several all Chinook hopped pales, IPAs and ambers. Chinook hops are the best. I love that aggressive, biting bitterness they provide. They are great for dryhopping too!

A lot of people, including me, will leave beer on the primary for four to six weeks with no problems at all. The longest I've ever gone in two months with no off taste at all. In fact, they tend to be a little cleaner than beers that go into the secondary. I never secondary, unless it is a...

Clean and sanitize your airlock, then leave it alone for a few more weeks. Sounds like normal krausen/floaty yeast to me.

Has anyone had this? It's a promotional beer by Elysian for a Seattle radio show (funny btw) Anyway, it's really quite a nice red ale. Malt forward with hints of caramel and toast and a really nice hop aroma, thinking Amarillo? but the hop flavor is very subdued, just enough to balance it...

I've done an all brett brown ale with brett L.. Made a big starter (I think 1 gallon, been a while) and pitched it like a normal yeast (aeration, temps a little higher at 75) and it took off like a rocket! Thickest, creamiest krausen i have ever seen, almost like a nitro stout head but four...

yeah, but how'd you know?

Raising a thread from the dead, I just tapped an all Columbus IPA, and it is FANTASTIC! Big earthy, resiny hop flavor, very powerful. used about five ounces total, most where late additions, with a 1.5 o bittering charge on top of a 1.070 base. MM MM Good

Good name! Nope the beer will be just fine.

Well, figure about 1.25 to 1/2 Quarts strike water per pound of grain. Figure about .3 quarts of absorption per pound of grain, Then figure out how much sparge water you will need to collect 6 or 7 gallons. So off hand by your recipe, I would say 14.5 quarts strike water to mash, and 17...

Well, actually you will need to collect more than five gallons. You will have some wort evaporate during the boil. Usually about a gallon an hour on my setup, but ymmv. So at least sex gallons, plus some hop loss, so about six and a half to seven gallons total. Good luck!

Sorry, didn't mean to sound like a d**k, was a little tipsy last night. We all started off somewhere.

Uh, two row MALT! No such thing as two row hops.

I've used the Bavarian Wheat yeast (dont remember the number, but it was Wyeast) for a belgian pale ale and a really whacked out porter. Worked great in the pale, not so much in the porter. I get where you are coming from, combining the chocolaty roastiness of a stout with the fruitiness of...

Update, Just thieved a bit of this one week into primary. Yep, that tastes like chinook hops, and the bitterness is right on, staying with you for a minute or two. cant wit to keg this one up

Dude, bottle the thing allready!:p

Cellar Door Brewing because all of my stuff, kegs and fermentors, are in the cellar

So I thought I was going to be smart and make a granola wheat beer. You know, mash with things that could be in granola. So we have wheat, barley (of course) oats, and a little honey thrown in at the end of the boil. Then I get this bright Idea, "I'll really make it hippy if I use some...

I dont think so. Because your airlock blew off, there is some really active fermentation going on, and there will be a heavy layer of CO2 on top of the beer, making it very hard for nasties to take hold. I think some breweries use open fermenters regularly

If you made a nice healthy starter, it doesnt seem weird at all. Your yeasties are happy