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Yeah, fermenters do go bad...especialy the plastic ones. But that's a whole other subject, just like sour beers (you'll need a whole other set of equipment for the cold side of brewing).

There's a couple reasons that this could be happening. The most likely culprit is stressed yeast. That can happen from not pitching enough yeast, pitching while the wort is still too warm, taking the beer away from the yeast too soon (sooner than 14 days), or not aerating enough (but I think...

Finch's Threadless IPA.

Yeast strains do help certain flavors stand out, as you noticed in the the first W-34/70 batch and the first WY2206. Not to say that the manufacturer of your chocolate malts or degrees of roasting may have changed (i.e. used Thomas Faucett Pale Chocolate in batch 1 and Thomas Faucett Dark...

How long did you let the first beer stay in primary before harvesting the yeast? I ask because if it was anything less than 7 days, you probably harvested a lot of dead/unhealthy/quick-to-flocculate yeast, which are less than ideal. Also, did you make a starter?

Doing a D rest never hurts. Your plan of action looks pretty easy and will work just fine. Let us know how it turns out.

I have not used the Brinkmann, but I own an SQ14. If the burner element in the Brinkmann is the same one as the SQ14 it will work just fine.

duboman nailed it. I second the practice of letting your beer stay in primary for two weeks. For me, a two week primary is a minimum requirement. After primary, you can rack to a secondary if you want to dry hop/spice, or add anything else to your beer, or let the yeast flocculate on their...

It is normal for the yeast. Since you're at a lower temp it probably just took a little bit longer to show the signs of "normal" fermentation.

You can leave it as is. Take gravity readings though, so you know if it's the yeast getting back to work or CO2 getting knocked out of solution from the cherries.

Answers are in bold. 1. Are the yeast all dead because the sugar has not decreased and there are no signs of fermentation. No. But the other poster is right. You took the beer away from the majority of the yeast that is most capable of fermenting the type of sugar that you added. Give it...

Yeast Washing. This is another was of harvesting yeast. Get 100 different brewers that wash yeast and you'll find 100 different ways of washing yeast. Find a way that works for you.

Lager yeast takes a little bit longer to take off. Give it a couple more days to get going. Also, since it's a lager yeast it may give off sulfur and/or rotten egg scents. What lager yeast did you use?

Refractometers can't measure FG without doing a conversion. I use Onebeer.net so I don't have to do all of the math.

65-70 degrees. Since you're adding CO2 by force carbonating, and then releasing the pressure, the CO2 that is coming out of solution is going to carry with it some of the good and bad flavors with it.

In normal rye, the starches haven't been gelatinized which makes it harder to for the enzymes in the mash to convert the starches to sugars. In the flaked rye, those starches have been gelatinized and are more easily converted to sugar. Diastatic power is a measure of the amount of enzymes a...

Way too much up and down the temperature. Another week or two at a warmer temp will probably solve your problem, since a lot of the sulfer smelling compounds are blown off with CO2. If that doesn't work, you could, but I don't recommend, force carbonating it and releaseing the pressure every...

Eventually one of the strains is going to take over. Keep an eye, or tastebud, on the beers that you repitch this blend into to see if one is taking over.

Drank my beer.

I don't know how many people in my homebrew club brewed this beer. It's always funny when they say it's a carmel amber ale and I ask if it's the same one from HBT. Thanks, King, for sharing a kick butt recipe. I always enjoy it, even if I didn't brew it.