Search results

No problem with amber, in fact it should only do good things. Light is not so important to keeps yeast away from, unlike hops, but UV light is not good for most things. As long as you can see growth through them, which I would bet you can see enough, they are more than fine. Great find.

Any glass container would work (pint glass...), you could also make a "beaker" out of foil, w/e to keep them standing.

I've definitely noticed that more cloudy pours have a somewhat sweeter taste and certainly a thicker mouth feel that clear samples. (same batch, same keg)

Haha, neither am I. I think people just think assume I don't know what I'm talking about and served a bad beer. I assure you I did not, some of the camping guys knew a lot about beer some didn't, all were amazed by the beer and further the time it was turned around in. I had frankly planned...

Well way to bash down the whole point of posting this buzz kill. If the title of this post was "how to make the greatest dubble" then your comment would be appropriate, it wasn't, there are enough other threads about conditioning. It was to point out that this style, one that most people...

Just had to brag to some people who understand. I have made the belgian dubbel recipe in BCS a few times now, but for a recent camping trip i pushed my limits as a brewer a bit and had to try and get it ready to serve exactly 2 weeks to the hour after brewing it. Using all grain, an...

The current batch of cider I have on tap is brilliantly clear, and I did absolutely nothing to make it so. It was pasteurized juice, and I treated it like every other batch(CK's method), used S05, added 1 lb sugar in the raw. No idea why it's so clear, no idea on what the apple mix was, it was...

not a mead guy (yet), but 1 lb cascade in a 5 lb batch?!?! 2 oz in 5 gal of beer usually gives a good dry hop aroma, since this is mead I am assuming you'd want a more subdued hop presence, so i'd say start with ~0.5 oz cascade in secondary for a week, you can always add more if that is not...

From what i can find it looks like the fermcap/PDMS stays more or less at the interface of the wort/air, and is generally left behind when transferring the wort, due to sticking to surfaces or particles in the trub left behind. it may be when adding more dme to the mix the fermcap adheres to...

i'm assuming he means to pressure cook jars of either wort or a mix of water and DME, so he has ready made sterile wort on hand. Though if that is the case then you don't need to boil it for a starter... so yeah, now i'm not sure the purpose. But canning jars allow hopefully just gas to escape...

From my use of it (just starters) I think it would work in the autoclave, but yes, it appears to denature, even in the normal boil. i know if i add more DME to a starter after it has been boiling even with fermcap, it will boil over if i do not add more fermcap. Wish i had more exact...

You mentioned Brupak yeast is hard to find in the states, any hints on how I could get it? And Congrats on the awesome win in the Dominion Cup! Cider as 2nd place best of show in a big beer comp is damn nice work.

NP. There is just really nothing that can substitute for a pressure cooker, nothing cheaper anyway. Repeated boil/microwave methods (mentioned earlier in this thread i believe) could be the exception to that, but you pay in wasted time and uncertain results IMHO.

No. You need a pressure cooker. They are built to withstand the pressure, if you pressurize a vessel not meant to be pressurized, you are creating a bomb. If you are unsure if the container you are looking at is ment to hold pressure, then look on it. If there is not a pressure gauge or...

The only problem I see with adding hops is that the hop oils negatively effect the yeast, as well as bacteria. I would not use any hops unless you are having problems with contamination, and really, if you can't keep it clean then maybe slanting is not where you should be focusing your energy...

Raj Apte is another great homebrewer reference for sours (which really, there is a general lack of information on) http://www2.parc.com/emdl/members/apte/flemishredale.shtml http://www2.parc.com/emdl/members/apte/ Only other thing I can think of that is not already mentioned is The Brewing...

In general I say wits are good to go after 2 weeks from pitching yeast, . Wits are best young (under a month, again, my general observation), so if it's already in the keg, taste it, it's probably great right now.

You might want to make the beer with all grain (add extra base grain instead of the sugar, well, maybe not all of the sugar) and mash high. The bugs should take it down dry by eating the extra dextrin's that the yeast cannot. This way you don't have to worry about whether the yeast is in...

yeah, if you can find a better option for cheaper let me know. But the K-type is a POS. not only does it rust (badly and quickly) but (mine at least) does not stay accurate at both cold and hot temperatures. I have it calibrated for hot temperatures (HLT) and seems to stay accurate enough...

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15&products_id=84