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Probably some chill haze and yeast still in suspension. Use irish moss or similar, boil hard, and have enough calcium.

From what I have heard and read, 'proofing' or rehydrating dry yeast in wort will kill a percentage of the yeast due to rupturing of the yeast cell walls. Water rehydrates the yeast cell walls and will not rupture them, allowing them to be ready to be added to your wort.

Taste the beer, it is surely fine. I just did the same, pitched a two week starter and had activity in four hours. I decanted the beer and tasted the sample. Not bad for no hops and 36 hours of aeration on a stirplate.

If you make any more of these please shoot me a PM. I would be interested in purchasing one.

I use pacman or us-05

Pittsburgh, PA basement is between 62-67F all winter. I use a water bath which is almost always 64-65F.

Hey, looks really good. Where in Pittsburgh? I live in Moon Twp and would love to come by to check it out sometime. Bob

It is hard to say with extract what the attenuation will be. I would expect something under 1.010 with a 1.040 starting and notty but if it hasn't changed in a few days it is done.

if your making a starter then there is no need to worry at all.

oh, and there are the ubuntuforums.org and also try #ubuntu on irc.freenode.net may be ##ubuntu I can't remember

I have been using ubuntu for over a year now. I started using linux in very late 2002. Started with knoppix, then kanotix, then mepis, then gentoo. I used gentoo for a number of years and really liked it. When my laptop when kaput I ordered in a new one to replace it and had to get linux up and...

I agree with Shooter, just use about 1/2 the normal amount of priming sugar and let it go for a few weeks if you have a keg already tapped. There are yeast in the beer and they are going to settle out anyway.

I would say if you are making a low gravity beer (1.040 or so) you can get away with just pitching the yeast dry on to the beer. You will kill some cells that way but there will be plenty that survive to ferment the beer just fine. It making a bigger beer, I would rehydrate in water, about 115...

I did it for the first time on my last batch. It worked well and I was careful not to let it hit the side of the bucket for fear of scratches. It worked really well and a few minutes of that I am sure is equal to 15+ minutes of shaking the hell out of it.

Averaging out everything since i started September 2009, including equipment, bulk hops, etc. I would say about $80-90 a month. This will be ever decreasing as the only other equipment I want is a mill. Two 5 gallon batches a month cost me about $40 - $50/month. I have only purchased commercial...

I wonder if you have the time to make a concentrated 60 minute boil hop tea ( just some hops and water) ahead of time and store in the fridge in say a mason jar or something. Then on your brewday do the 15 minute boil with the tea added and flavor additions as normal.

My opinion: Cut back on the victory to at most 0.5 lbs (i would use 0.25 lbs) and up the crystal to 1lb of no more than a 60L. The mash temp of 154 will help keep the final gravity a bit higher. Either way it will be a good beer.

I will make an occasional brown ale for my wife and friends but I only brew hoppy APA and IPA's for myself. I have always liked hops but even more so now that I homebrew.

7.5 lbs 2 row 2.0 lbs munich 9L 0.75 lbs C120 0.75 honey malt expecting OG of ~1.054 and shooting for 35-40 IBU. I have columbus, centennial, cascade, and willamette hops. Plus a few other non-american varieties. My questions are: 1. How does the recipe look? I have never used...

If you aerate well, pitch enough yeast, and have stable fermentation temperatures in the yeasts range then you can keg in 10 days. Depending on the beer, something like a simple pale ale, it will be ready to drink by the time it carbs. Something like a stout with roasted malts, black patent, etc...