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very nice, thank you, picked up a big one

Also, I'm pretty sure it's the #9 cork when you cork+cap bottles. I believe I use these ones from Austin Homebrew: Austin Homebrew Supply They work great.

You don't need to store them on their side, they will be just fine upright. I store all mine on the side since it saves space since I stack them. From what I've been told there is a slight benefit to storing on it's side in lambic/gueze since it spreads out the yeast/bacteria giving more contact...

Did you buy the corks in a 100 pack?

no, it makes no difference. I store all mine on the side and those corks still don't work.

Don't purchase Belgian corks from More Beer, twice now I've received total crap Belgian corks from them. Make sure they have "Ref" written on the side like the ones Northern Brewer sells. I've never had any problems with the "Ref" corks. I know the exact problem you're having as I've used the...

maybe they sold you lactose instead of corn sugar.

I do this quite a bit, it's much less expensive than cork+cage. Get corks smaller than the "Belgian" corks they sell, I tend to use #9 corks, but you can use the real cork, or other wine corks should work fine. You'll need a floor corker, as the corks need to be compressed before being inserted...

My two saisons I've brewed with his saison yeast ended up at 1.003. It contains a portion of wyeast 3711 which is notorious for finishing in the very low digits. Just bottle it in good glass to be on the safe side. I've never done side by sides on bulk vs bottle aged brett profile development...

The brett will develop fine in the bottle. Are you sure you're safe to bottle at 1.006?

I haven't found much of a difference in flavor profile on this yeast at different temps, so don't stress about the exact temps too much, I'd keep it in the lower range of the 70s as if it gets to hot it just spits out excess phenolics, you'll get pepper either way, just at the high temps it can...

Keep it in the mid to low 70s with 3711. The 80+ is more for the 3724, 3725, 3726 yeast. You should finish out below 1.005, this yeast has a tendency to keep going as well, so I'd advise using heavier glass if you prime near 3 volumes as I've seen this yeast get down to 1.001.

Just FYI, the 3L bottle doesn't fit in my floor corker. I was thinking of doing the same thing, but no dice.

Kevin, Next trip up works great, I'll buy you a beer or two! Or if you have an old Whitelabs tube you could ship it up in that. Thanks a ton, should be fun to try out on a few beers.

attenuation Also, to Beerandcoding, any chance you'd want to send some of your juniper wild yeast up to Portland? I'd like to try it out on batch or two. I have a wild brett/lacto blend from an ambient ferment I could send in return. Cheers!

dry hopping doesn't add IBUs, also I don't think Orval has any souring bacteria, just brett.. I've had a beer with 25 IBUs become very sour due to a lactobacillus infection, so it's not as if all lacto can't survive more than 10 IBU, it just may be hindered a bit.

no, brett isn't sensitive to IBUs... but it also won't get the beer very sour, that's Lacto and Pedio's job.

Capden doesn't really kill off yeast, not sure that would work. If you're getting mold my guess is you didn't have good primary fermentation in the first case. I still haven't seen an OG/FG from the original poster, but my guess is not much was fermented allowing mold to grow.

what was your OG? are you kegging or bottling?

maybe pull a gravity reading on it, see how well it fermented, then maybe give it a taste as well, there could be a couple options.