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If you have one or two 2.5 or 3 gal kegs that you'd like to unload, I'd like to buy them from you. I brew 3 gal batches and am content with my current setup even with severely limited space. I would like to start kegging these batches. Thanks.

I did that once. Except I wasn't paying attention to it and walked down after about 2 days. Beer was in my airlock and all over my lid. I took off the airlock and washed the lid in santizer, while the airlock soaked. I put everything back together and Humpty Dumpty was fine in the end.

I never knew that, that is good to know, thanks. Do you think that it would play a role under our conditions?

You should rack to secondary after vigorous primary fermentation has finished, but total fermentation hasn't. When you do this, the yeast consumes the remaining sugars and the forms enough CO2 that then fills the head space.

I think it would be fine. I disagree with Yooper in the speculation of gas permeability, if it can be used for primary, then it can be used for secondary. However, the point may have been that this bucket may not be food grade and be the air tight contraption required for brewing. I agree...

It's not necessary at all, but I recommend it. Bottle conditioned beer has yeast floating around and scavenging for sugar, this cleaning up the flavor of the beer and allowing all of the different flavors from the malt you used to be broken down and melded into the flavor of your beer. Yeast...

Put a thermometer in your car where the beer will be stored. What is the temp? You can use a box with blankets and various insulation.

I don't use large starters, so I won't say either way. Someone else will be here to help. I'd save the starter in the fridge until someone with more experience comes along to offer their advice. The yeast won't die, they'll just take a nap.

If your Nottingham has already started, you're assured of getting beer. If that's the case, your batch is not broken. If your batch of beer is not broken, is there a need to fix it? I would let the Nottingham go. Save the starter for next weekend.

What was your OG? FG of 1.012 sounds finished. At higher temps, most yeast is more active. Did you ever see signs of fermentation? What yeast was it? Some yeast, i.e. Coopers dry ferments completely in about 36 hours, max. After fermentation, your risk of contamination is greatly...

Absolutely, just make sure it is cool. It will throw off your IBU's minorly if your volume differs from you calculated volume. I don't worry too much about exact OG numbers as long as it's not 3.5% and not 10%, if I'm a little high or a little low, that error won't drastically impact the beer...

If your airlock is bubbling, it's not contaminated, the yeast has won the battles against any contaminating agents. .008 too high isn't too bad. I wouldn't have even bothered adding extra water, but it sounds like you did it correctly. The extra .008 would have added a little extra alcohol...

That is what I have thought as well. Not only does it need to be mashed, but it's a good idea to mash it with other grains that have higher diastatic power like 6-row and wheat. With the 1# of 6-row, carapils and 0.5# corn, I was assuming a mash.

Mashing is not really that complicated. It's like steeping except you use a lower temp (150-155) and then must thoroughly rinse the grains to get all the converted sugar out. You could get a grain bag, heat water in your brew pot to 160 or so then put your grain in the grain bag and toss it in...

You're definitely right, I'm completely overambitious. You have 10 kegs? I'm envious.

I forgot you weren't mashing. Here's a link to a previous thread on steeping carapils, I think you can steep it and the crystal 10, but you won't get as much sugar (=alcohol) from them by steeping: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f37/carafoam-carapils-maltodextrine-5790/ A budweiser is probably...

I think some carapils would be good as well. and if you decide to to mash anything, you should use 6-row with some corn.

In my experience, particularly with Munich, much more than 3 weeks is required in the bottle. You didn't really use that much where it would seem to be a problem, but Munich is very harsh until it realizes that it's in beer and in a bottle for the long run and it might as well calm down...

Nottingham is slower. I think it will start up around 12 hours and give you some nice krausen around 36 hours. Is it bubbling yet? Don't panic until after 48+ hours. The temp is cool, so you are correct in your assumption. My hour estimates above are based on 69 (a randomly chosen number)...

I have just started experimenting with Nottingham. I have had others' brews made with it that are neutral. Either the Nottingham or S-05 are fine. If you're fermenting at a lower temp, go with the nottingham, it's extremely cold tolerant. One packet with be fine of either. Make a starter...