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+100 Your suspicion couldn't be more off. Try upping the pale malt to 80% of your grain bill and halfing everything else.

If you filter it out, there will be no yeast to carbonate your brew. Don't like it? Start kegging.

I've got one, look under my recipes. If you want to add the Chipotles, go for it. If you want to be in the 7%-8% ABV range, drop the molasses addition.

+1 When bottle conditioning is happening, there is an equilibrium between the CO2 pressure in solution and the head space. Since the yeast producing the CO2 is in solution, the CO2 pressure in the beer is momentarily higher than the head space for an instance. Then, CO2 is off gassed from...

There are Belgian Strong Ale recipes here. You may also want to do some research on bottle harvesting yeast. Good luck.

Holy emoticons, Batman! Easy there. Before going all crazy and buying all the equipment to do all grain brewing, do a couple of kits that have unhopped extract, steeping grains, and hops. There are a lot of things to learn and parameters to control to ensure that you can consistently make...

I use an old milk crate for my 5 gallon carboys. Solid, protective, and made to carry the weight.

Three fermentations? That's really vague. Can you expand on that?

You may have a wild yeast present. In low enough concentrations, it may be just a lack of body and malt character. As it gets more established, the flavor can get sour. I'd do a 30 minute, hot bleach/vinegar solution (look up what the concentrations) soak on everything that touches the beer...

See if you can find a used restaurant equipment shop or a scrap metal dealer. Lots of time they'll have used pots really cheap.

You have a couple of choices: 1) do a smaller batch 2) get a bigger cooler 3) do a double partigyle - put half your grains in the tun and take only the first runnings to the brew kettle. Put the rest of the runnings into some clean buckets or containers. Repeat. You should end up with a...

I can't pull up the photo, but at 12" high, I'd guess 5 lbs.

I've used WLP090 a couple of times and have had issues with it not finishing. I'm giving it one more shot and if it fails, there's one less yeast to worry about.

Which is which? Or, do we guess? I'm guessing the 1056 is on the left.

Wow! So, what happened? Theory: The government, as they are ken to do, secretly has sequestered jakester and is now weaponizing his cheese-banana-beer. Pakistan will soon smell like banana split vomit.

I think you've got too much sugar/honey in this and you'll end up with a watery beer with very little body. Get a hold of some wheat DME or LME and replace the sugars with it.

I would definitely use something else for bittering. Amarillos should be used for aroma and flavor. A Magnum for clean bittering or try Chinook or Columbus for some bite. I'd also bump up a couple of the late additions to a full ounce to get your hop on.

Crush is usually the number one issue. What was the SG of the final runnings of you sparge? Half an hour for almost five gallons sounds a little quick.

If the fermentation is finished, adding more yeast is just a waste. You are dropping your new yeast into an environment that is void of fuel and oxygen. P.S. Yes. Adding dry hops during active fermentation is not a great idea as the volatile aroma compounds are driven off by CO2 off gassing.

Not all yeast cells are the same size. How far into the fermentation are you? It looks like flocculation is just starting.