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I'm planning to brew an Imperial Red with a big malt profile - Maris otter, Munich, crystal 120 and a touch of chocolate malt and I'm wondering what hop combo for hop bursting would give me the nicest hop profile and balance for all the malt. I was thinking Simcoe/Centennial/Columbus but I'm...

Has anybody run into this issue? I brewed a basic pale ale with US05, used plenty of yeast, aerated with oxygen, fermented for 12 days (1.068 to 1.011) then cold crashed, fined with gelatin and started dry-hopping in keg with an ounce of centennial and ounce of simcoe. Smelled and tasted fine...

brewed this about 6 weeks ago, still enjoying it. have about 7 bottles left. very tasty. planning to brew it again but I'm considering trying WLP007 dry English ale yeast instead of 001 or US05. wouldn't mind just a touch more malt backbone. I've also heard that 007 attenuates like a beast...

that happened to me too. I ended up with less wort because of a nice, vigorous 90 minute boil and my OG was 1.075 or so. I added about a half gallon of water. I dry hopped in primary as an experiment but will definitely rack to secondary next time to let it clear and settle more. Otherwise...

I have this feeling though, that since this isn't a super light nor a really dark beer the mash ph level probably won't affect the final product too much. but I could be wrong...

apparently the mash ph should be around 5.1 or 5.2 to get the best conversion of starch to sugar. I haven't ever checked my ph level. probably should. there's a product called 5.2 mash stabilizer that will bring the mash to 5.2 and keep it there. anybody have any experience with the 5.2...

Also I would invest in a bigger pot - like a ten gallon. makes brewing life so much easier. You can get 60 qt stock pots on eBay for around $65 or $70 bucks.

when I brewed this the 90 minute boil got me a bit under 5 gallons and my OG was high so I just added water to bring the OG within range. I would test your gravity and make the water adjustment accordingly as opposed to just adding water to make an even 5 gallons. Here's a calculator to help...

A longer boil can help eliminate DMS. The half-life for DMS is 40 minutes, so half of the DMS will be boiled off in a 40 minute vigorous boil. So if we do the math, a 60 minute boil gets rid of 64.7% of the DMS and a 90 minute boil rids us of 79% of the DMS. That is why most experienced...

I tried one after about a week in the bottle and it was a bit rough around the edges yet. After three weeks and a few days in the fridge - they're awesome!

Do you also use an aeration system (paint mixer or air pump etc)? or do you just dump into your fermenter and shake a bit? I'm planning to try your approach of raising to room temp after krausen drops on my next batch. but I thought I'd try to aerate more as well. getting tired of my...

just be very careful to avoid a boil over if using such a small boil pot!

I would definitely suggest getting a bigger boil pot so you can do a full boil - but if you can't then you'll have to run off 4.8 gallons of wort from your mash tun, boil it 90 minutes and then take a starting gravity reading. Depending on how much over the mark you are you just add water to...

Thanks! good advice. I'm becoming more of a believer in just letting the beer sit in primary undisturbed for at least two weeks to really let the yeast finish the job and clean up. Planning to let this IPA sit for two weeks then drop in my 1oz of cascade to dry hop in primary for another...

I used Wyeast high gravity Trappist. alcohol tolerance 11-12 % or higher. should have been able to handle it. and I'm certain that my fermentation temps never got over 71 or 72. kept a very close eye on it during the first couple days. 3787's range is 64-78 degrees.

I sprinkled in two packs of US-05. a bit of overkill perhaps but I've been struggling with stalled fermentations (probably because I'm too invest in a decent aeration system) and wanted to make sure I got full attenuation. about to transfer to secondary. I'll keep ya posted on my FG.

I kept it between 68-70. fermentation was pretty vigorous first couple days. took about two weeks to eventually attenuate down to about 1.020. I kept the bottles at 68-70 degrees since last Jan. it's a mystery. I even added a bit of US 05 to a couple bottle a few months ago and recapped...

that's my question to Matt. I usually dry hop for a week to ten days to avoid extra grassy notes. but I'd rather defer to Matt as it's his recipe. haven't heard from him on this yet....

I just cracked another one of my tripels, a nice pop and hiss but still pretty flat when I poured it out. tastes VERY alcoholic. It's been 9 months. ABV should've been about 10 percent although by the taste of it it might be more. I decided to add a tiny bit of extra priming sugar to one of...

they've been at 70 degrees for months. caps are good. the only thing I can think of is I somehow didn't put in the priming sugar. but I'm 98 percent positive I did. oh well. maybe they'll carbonate at some point and be amazing!