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Why in god's name is there hop particulate in your primary?

I'm confused. Are you saying your CO2 cylinder side gauge is dropping, or keg side? I assume it's the cylinder reading, as 40 psi seems high to carbonate at. 40 psi also seems low for cylinder side, should be way higher. How old is the tank? When was it last filled? I usually recommend not...

I am going to strongly disagree with everyone who said 3 gallon batches are a waste of time. A 3 gallon batch, while taking an equal amount of time to brew initially, saves some time and space later. A 3 gallon batch will net you a case of beer with some left over for friends to sample...

I would agree, but do a yeast washing. Don't just dump it on top of the lees from the old batch (like a guy I know does - horrifies me, and he's gotten a bacterial pellicle doing it before :x )

What was your original gravity? If it was high, your yeast might be a little sick from alcohol poisoning. The fact that it was carbonated at all means they are still working. Give it some more time in the bottle, it'll get there. How much priming sugar did you add? Also, try keeping your...

Hmmm, interesting points. If we consider that 25g of sodium anything creates 1320ppm sodium (that is, 25,000mg/18.9271L), it is way over anything that occurs in most water sources. (Someone please check my math). However, I have not tasted any noticeable difference in the water, but I may not...

Hey all- I was suddenly intrigued by a product I had passed up for years without a second thought. It is supposed to stabilize your strike/mash water to a pH of 5.2. I hadn't given pH in mashing a thought until I listened to some brew strong podcasts and did some research. With a triple...

This seems counterintuitive, as the dextrins are unfermentable and can't be broken down by the amylase enzymes anyway. However, the grain also has normal maltose polymers that can be, and if steeped by itself, the amylase enzymes will be insufficient, as the majority of those enzymes come from...

I agree. Brew what you like. I've brewed beers that fellow homebrewers have tasted and didn't like. "It's too malty/too hoppy/astringent?/boozy/too sweet/undercarbonated/overcarbonated/etc." Well, I guess you won't be asking for any more then, will you? More for me.

I agree with Airborneguy. What were your bittering hops? Some hops have higher levels of beta acids, and these can make the bitterness appear "harsher", or so claims my LHS owner.

I would not continually rack the beer, as this exposes it to risk of oxidation from continual moving. I have recently become a fan of not racking out of the primary unless I'm lagering or I need a dry hop. I have a fantastic cream ale that was left on all the primary trub for 3 weeks, cleared...

Congrats - my current beer is taking very long to carbonate as well

If there is any difference between using corn sugar and table sugar to carbonate, I can't taste it. Purists use dry malt extract to prime and say their beer is superior, but I wonder. I usually brew strong tasting beers, so I'm a little biased. I agree, question number 2 needs more...

Naughty homebrewer, using dark LME. Use the light malt extract and build the grain profile yourself. It's more rewarding.

Hell yeah, the plane takes off kottke.org/08/01/mythbusters-airplane-on-a-conveyor-belt Homebrewing rawks, congrats

That sounds...not very hygenic, to do both at the same time but congratulations anyway. Try adding Victory Malt or Munich Malt.

Probably not, but yeah, all wheat beers are usually 50/50 or even 60B/40W.

Agreed. California ale yeasts ferment drier, with different byproducts (read: British ale yeasts produce fruity esters).

I'd recommend a full tsp of Fermaid K (supposed to use 1/8 to 1/4 tsp per 5 gallon batch).

I feel the need to correct you. There are some people who may take offense to your beer. Please consider changing the name of your brew to "Angry Little Person Ale". Little People of America thanks you.