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I did find on the NB website something that would allow me to remove the thermometer and plug the hole (Weldless Bulkhead Hole Plug Kit - Kettle Plug). But it would be nice to still have that functionality.

Now that Northern Brewer is closing its retail shops, does anyone have a lead on where to go in the twin cities for refills of co2 or nitrogen?

I just picked up an 8-gallon Megapot with ball valve and thermometer on heavy sale at the northern brewer retail closing sale. I tried fitting my wort chiller in and the thermometer blocks it. I’m guessing I’m not the first to face this issue—has anyone found a good solution?

So would the recommendation be to BKF it until it comes off? Any other tips to move a stubborn deposit?

My mistake—it is, in fact, stainless steel (5 Gallon Brew Kettle in Stainless Steel). Does this change anyone’s opinion on what the buildup/discoloration might be?

I don’t believe it’s rust but I guess it could be. It’s the cheap kettle that came with my first starter kit, so i think aluminum. It does feel a little rough I don’t think so That’s what I figured—it’s not like the wort really touches the lid anyways, especially post boil

I’m mid brew and just noticed this strange buildup on the lid of my kettle. I tried soap, soft scrub, and barkeepers friend and nothing can get it off (though it was brown and is now less so). What is this? Any tips on how to get it off?

I find that that’s not a particularly good indicator for a secondary fruit fermentation—it’s usually not so vigorous that the frequency of bubbling is much distinguishable from bubbling due to off-gassing or temperature changes

Thanks. Is there any way to get a sense visually or whether the fermentation of the fruit is moving along?

I am brewing a catharina sour that I’ve made a few times before. I usually make and pasteurize my own raspberry purée from frozen raspberries and it is pretty reliably good. This time I made a split batch—half of the beer went on raspberry and half on a canned apricot puree that I bought from my...

Thanks—I’ll give those a try

I did find these but the shipping cost is quite steep. Do you have a good alternative source for these? Clear will work if amber is too hard to find. I generally keg, and one of my favorite aspects of it is that I can pour just the amount I want, which is generally less than 12oz. I sometimes...

Does anyone know where I can find amber beer bottles about 7-8oz? Crown cap or swing top work, but crown slightly preferred.

I've become a fan of Rastal from their Teku glass, from which I drink all my home-brewed beers. I was hoping to get my hands on some of their wine glasses (which I understand are also commonly used as beer glasses--the Harmony series (Harmony 53 Stem glasses 51.2cl - RASTAL GmbH & Co. KG). But...

Is it safe to assume that the effect on pH of adding wort to soured wort would be less than the effect of adding water, since the former is acidic?

I came across this. Are the methods here not applicable? The idea would be to treat the addition of DME and water as the addition of a wort of pH ~5.6

I have a wort in my kettle currently souring. When it’s reached desired pH, the plan is to bring it to a boil, add more DME, cool, and top off with water. I’ve been able to find online calculators to determine what the pH of a solution is after diluting with water. But because I’ll also be...

I get that adding air at any time right before serving is a problem. The question is whether the syringe method would work with any beer, or must the beer be packaged with a little nitrogen already dissolved in it (but with no widget) for the syringe method to work. As I understand it can work...

Thanks—this is really helpful. To make sure I’m understanding correctly—a fully carbonated beer put into a keg with 30+ psi nitrogen would decarbonate despite the headspace pressure being considerably higher than that need to achieve its carbonation with a head of CO2? Supposing one has only...

Sure, but it’s not necessary to somehow get the N2 into the bottle?