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i think there's just a lot of variation in glass production quality... i remember while bottling a batch I'd go from barely being able to see the liquid level to nearly being able to read a paper through the glass. perhaps its a bad batch of bottles from that lot of Sam Adams.

i think he means he already has 5-gal corny kegs and is weighing buying a 5-Gal carboy vs a 6.5-Gal carboy to minimize headspace. If you at least have the hookups for CO2 it wouldn't be a problem to dry-hop/oak/age your beer in the 5-Gal corney keg as long as you purge the headspace and seal...

i don't think you can correlate the time it takes to cool down in a kegerator compared to outside (where a 65 degree keg won't increase the ambient temperature like it would in a kegerator)

double facepalm action!!

i would try to get an english ale yeast (I used WLP 002) and i used a recipe similar to the ones with some changes. I subbed Fuggles for the Target hops. 5lbs Dark Dry Malt Extract 1lb Chocolate Malt 8oz. Caramel/Crystal Malt - 80L 8oz. Roasted Barley hops 60min 1.0oz Fuggles...

well you probably shouldn't/don't need to take the entire thing apart... is there a problem with yours that you're specifically looking to fix?

yeah that's right, just got confused the way it was written. Since this is all in equilibrium when n is increasing (yeast producing CO2 and increasing the moles of CO2 gas) therefore the Pressure also increases all the while the liquid is absorbing some CO2 This is all of course assuming...

a quick google search and this came up http://www.nadsinc.com/pdfs/nadsinc_co2_primary_reg.pdf

i believe the beer out post will be about 1mm(or less) larger then the gas-in post. (if you've ever accidentally put the gas-in on the wrong post it's a bit difficult to remove)

if the area where you are fermenting has warmed up since a few days then that is probably why your beer started offgasing CO2.

you forgot to mention that endospores are not metabolically active & non-reproductive. Just a way for them to try and survive. It also said it takes 8 hours for the bacterium to form this endospore.

i assume you've tried pliers... needle nose maybe?

wow! those are some great prices on new Al tanks 10lb for 69.99 +12.xx for shipping. I seriously might get that and keep my 5lb steel as backup.

i believe earlier in the thread the OP stated he uses IOStar and not StarSan

if it's at gravity of course you can bottle but it will take closer to 3-4 weeks if its still somewhat cloudy for all of the yeast to settle into a nice cake at the bottom of the bottle (from my experience when bottling after only ~2 weeks). You could also just siphon while cold at that...

the lower you go in temperature the slower carbonation will occur (this has to do with the yeast producing CO2 from your priming sugar) I think this would work and you would be alright doing it that way but maybe some others can join in with some more advice. I would try 4 volumes and make...

i would say that most of your CO2 is now in the liquid phase so it's no longer giving off as much pressure. But it's all still there (unless there's a leak).

two months already mixed is a long time... i don't think it lasts more than a few days if its already been diluted. OP do you mean 2 months since you bought the 32oz bottle or two months since you mixed up a useable amount to sanitize??

That would sound to me like the sanitizer is not working properly. If there was mold in the sanitizer then it can't be sanitary. Meaning it's either too old or too dilute and regardless of how well you followed your procedures if the sanitizer didn't work right you were just spinning your wheels.

it all depends on how strong their caustic cleaner was but i with a few gallons of your sanitizer you should probably be alright. Star san is a somewhat acidic santizer.