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Not sure if it's beer stone, but a non-scratch scrub brush and barkeeper's friend isn't doing the trick. Maybe soak it in PBW for 24 hours?

Water is basically RO. It's Ozarka 100% Natural Spring Water. I sent it off to Ward Labs and the mineral content is basically negligible. Added 8g CaSO4, 4g CaCl2

Had my mash pH clock in at 5.37, water additions included 7 mL LA(88%), 94 ppm SO4, 57 ppm CL2. About a week in. Looks like terminal has hit, but still needs a week/week for the flavors to round out.

I recently brewed a big barleywine (1.110) and it took an extra hour of boiling to reach target OG. My boil-off rate is honed in for average OG beers on Beersmith, but not for bigger beers. Can anyone explain the science behind it?

What would you shoot for as far as total CaSO4, CaCL2 and S/C ratio? I assume a 5.2-5.4 pH goal is good...

Brewing a big barleywine this week (1.110) (100ish IBUs). Anybody have any recs on mineral additions for a beer like this? I'm working with a blank slate (RO water).

Seems like this would take quite a bit of time if you're only applying appropriate keg chart pressures of CO2 and just tilting the keg. How long does it take for you to do one "shaking/tilting" session? When you tilt the keg, are you keeping the CO2 post at the highest point?

Will have to try this! How are you shaking your keg, putting it on the floor and rocking it? Is the gas-side up?

LHBS recently sold me some YCH German Northern Brewer hops. Right off the bat I noticed the alpha acid content was much lower than the US Northern Brewer I've used. Outside of that, are there any drastic differences? Would it be OK to use these hops in a California Common?

Anybody know how to lower the temp parameters of the Glycol chiller? Mine currently drops to 32ºF but won't go any lower. The SS instructions are greek. I've done it before but have since forgotten.

Where did you read that myrcene oil was volatile above 147ºF? It seems like I would see this number pop up quite a bit more/would always be a target for anyone steeping/whirlpooling hops.

@ U/braufessor gonna bump this question

This may be splitting hairs: I recently read in Noonan's "New Brewing Lager Beer" that the hemicellulose of the aleurone layer of barley kernels can be dissolved/reduced to simple sugars in a thorough mash cycle, specifically between temps of 160-176ºF. I usually don't mash-out, so my wort never...

Will it get clogged if I whirlpool through a pump? I throw a considerable amount of hops into the whirlpool then cycle it via a pump. I'm worried about all the hops collecting at the dam and essentially clogging the dam.

Can you tell me more about it? How exactly does it work? Are you seeing big benefits from it?

Did SS discontinue the trub dam?

Did you keep the bittering addition the same? (0.75 oz Warrior @ 60)

Did you not perform a second dry-hop in this beer or just a single dry-hop on day 2?

Brewing a dark mild in a couple days and have no clue as what my water profile should look like. Should I shoot for a pH closer to 5.2 or 5.6? Ca, Chloride, Sulfate levels?

What mineral/salt additions would you use for this recipe?