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SOld $500 value for everything you need to start kegging! Fridge, temp controller, CO2 tank, regulator, 2 kegs All components purchased less than a year ago from KegConnection.com! Only selling because I'm moving. Prices below are for items sold separately, or buy everything for $175! 10lb...

your pictures don't seem to be working, but thanks for the video. looks like a good strong boil, especially on that much volume. did you do a full volume mash (no sparge)? if so, getting 10 or so gallons up to mash in an hour sounds pretty impressive. I'll probably do 3 gallon batches 70% of...

I'm also getting close to ordering the 120v 5 gal (9gal kettle) system. The one with the ranco controller. All updates and info from current owners is appreciated.

Looks fine as a pale ale, but for an IPA you should double the amounts for whirlpool and dry hop.

only one way to find out! If the LHBS has 1272, I really enjoy it in hazy pales. It's called american ale, but it's of english origin.

1968 should have no problem getting the beer dry enough with that mash temp and sugar. The 1056 will probably not be necessary. You could also just use WLP007, dry english ale.

Two packets of dry yeast, properly rehydrated, will do the job. However, my preference for a beer like this is to make an average strength 5% starter beer and then pitch the new beer on top of the yeast cake. Basically, make a normal stout, ferment for 5-6 days, rack it to another fermentor...

Looking at my notes it was actually 1.5oz last time. I'd say it is assertive but not overpowering, so just about right. Keep in mind that with something like an imperial stout will have plenty of flavors without any additions. And that your key to success with a beer like that will be a large...

I've had good results simply dropping whole, unsanitized coffee beans into the fermentor after fermentation, a la madfermentationist. I 'dry bean' with about 1oz/5gal for 24-36 before packaging. Boiled coffee doesn't taste good. Also, take it easy with too many flavor additions. It can get...

I just pitch them in after the boil and let them sit for 30+ minutes. After 45 minutes I'm usually at 170 or so, but I only do 3 gallons typically. Have you ever compared flameout against the lower temperature hopstand? Compared 60 to 30 minutes? I'm interested in those little tweaks but...

For an IPA recipe, there sure is an awful lot of talk about the grain bill in this thread. ;) Read the IPA article that was posted on the front page a few weeks ago. 30 and even 15 minute hops could be used more effectively after the boil. Also, the dry hops are a bit light. I think 1oz/gal is...

Keep in mind that European and English hops are much more subtle than new-world hops. You'd barely notice that that much dry hop, even in a 3 gallon batch. It might be nice for an ordinary bitter, but a bit more would be nice in an IPA, IMO. All comes down to personal taste though, have fun.

Liquid yeast does require a bit of extra knowledge and preparation. If it's too much, the OP should stick with dry yeast. Now what was the point of this thread?

I'd switch the corn to oats or rye. Corn will thin the body which is the opposite of what you want in a small beer. Use a low attenuating and characterful yeast like 1968/002, windsor, s04, etc. Nottingham is very clean and attenuates too well for a small beer IMO. Also, I think you're on track...

Schematix got it. Don't worry about the starter beer going into the wort. Just swirl it a bit. There are a lot of people who don't cold crash and decant at all but instead pitch the whole starter a high krausen and it works fine, if not better. You could possibly damage the yeast cells if you...

Also, not to sound preachy but please don't try to make a 10% belgian for one of your first beers. They require specific techniques and temperature control. Think about splitting your ingredients into two 5% beers if you keep the kit (and toss the yeast).

Yes, replacing an expensive liquid yeast with cheap dry yeast without any apology or refund is a rip-off. Return it and take your business elsewhere. That is inexcusable. S-33 is not even a Belgian yeast!

Most will recommend insulating the probe against the fermentor, since the fermenting beer will be warmer than ambient. However, I'm lazy, so I just use a 1L jar of water as a thermowell in my fridge. If I want a beer to ferment at 18C internal, I set the controller to 16C. Close enough for me. I...