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Also, depending on the yeast, the presence of too many simple chain sugars will cause an over production of the banana ester in beer. What was your Specific Gravity of the wort going into the carboy, and what was your mash temp?

To add my data point, I saw a 96 hour lag when I used BRY-97 from a dry pack, lag was non existent with harvested BRY-97.

I get the sense, given the way you described your sparging step, that you aren't sparging appropriately to extract the sugars in the grain. Don't worry about getting water all over the grain as you are pouring, just make sure you are stirring vigorously for 2 minutes once the sparge water is added.

I wanted to add my experiment to this thread. I just bought a case of this beer, it was bottled in August 2015, and I saved the dregs of 2 bottles to attempt to grow up the yeast that was in the bottle. Initial step up was 200ml of 1.040 wort 2nd step up was 500ml of 1.040 wort 3rd step up was...

Most yeast can have their temps raised 24 hours after visible fermentation. Cheers

I would recommend keeping the IBUs closer to 20 than 40. I've made 3 saisons now, the most enjoyable one was at 28IBU, the least was 40IBU. The dry body really amplifies bitterness IMO. Cheers

Excellent. I now see I can choose the phase for the beer, neat. It definitely seems to be more end-to-end than Beersmith is. I think I might just convert, time to keep playing. Cheers

Thanks for the recommendation. I just signed up and created a recipe. I see it does brew log. Does it support taking fermentation notes after the brew day? Can it schedule my stages based on the beer style and when I brewed it? Does it have a calendar view? I like the fact a brew session can...

I currently use BeerSmith 2 to design my recipes. I don't use its brew log or calendar features as I find them to be poorly designed, and of little value. I use google drive/dropbox to store my brew logs and fermentation logs I'm really tired of having to use beersmith to design, and text...

Looks yeasty to me.

I just did this with tap water @ 60F and the top of the meniscus read very very close to 1.000

I remember now. The actual hydrometer instructions stated to read from the top. This thread has an image just like my instruction sheet. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f128/hydrometer-calibration-271747/ WTF

I'm confused, internet, you confuse me! I agree reading that reading from the lowest point was how we were taught in academia. You're right that its a moot point if you measure the same way to find the differential. But it does matter if you're wondering if you've fully attenuated. I can't...

I don't think it's an infection. Also, that's mighty dark for a blonde. :)

Ryan, Just to be clear, when reading the gravity, you should be reading from the top of the meniscus, not the bottom as per this wiki article on HBT https://www.homebrewtalk.com/wiki/index.php/Talk:Hydrometer

Judging by the picture in the original post, it looks to me like you misread your hydrometer. Read from the very top of the beer/wort when it meets the hydrometer. From that picture, it looks like 1.016

Glad to see another Sudburian on the boards. I no longer live there, but I do call it my home away from home! Welcome!

Personally, I dislike using Chinook for flavoring. Bittering or Aroma only...so at 60min, and at 5/0 minutes is my recommendation for using Chinook.

When this happened to a batch of mine, I managed to pin point it to a leaky chiller intake hose that managed to leak into the beer as it was being chilled. We got that nasty flavor from the old hose that the water ran through. I also found that flavor to be accentuated when I overused Chinook.

My second brew with this yeast went very differently than the first. I had no signs of fermentation until 45 hours in last time, from a dry packet. This time I made a starter with yeast I had harvested 3 months earlier. This time I had active fermentation in 8 hours, and everything was done...