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Besides a light-rinse, I usually don't clean my BK or MT until.... the night before the next brewday. Which can be 6 weeks or more.. PBW is just so damn good, it makes me lazy.

I've regularly done up to 32lbs in my 48qt igloo ICE CUBE. At around 1.2qt/lb... it's full, but still got 80% efficiency. I have a pipe manifold in the bottom as well. I do 11 gallon batches up to around 1.078 that way.

I do it. every. single. time. I rack to keg -- seal the lid with high pressure (bales not locked down yet - I like the consistent seal) then lock the bales down, pull the prv 2-3 times, put it in the kegerator, connect the tap line, pull a few oz's, taste.... then come back every 24-48 hrs...

How long were they plugged in before you gave up? If you plugged in and heard nothing, so you unplugged... you may be wrong and their fine. There's a delay on the the compressor usually. IIRC - It's usually around 7-8m, but I could be off. I'd wait at least 20m before getting worried.

Try adding a couple oz of Acidulated malt to drive the mash PH down. My efficiency improves markedly

I brewed a 1.080 IPA(IIPA) (11Gallons) Bittered with Chinook Starting a 25m, I continuously hopped with a mix of Northern Brewer/Cascade (inspired by Walker's Kaduva IPA) I split the batch into two fermenters, now I'm trying to decide on what to dry hop each separately with to get two...

The 12pack Sierra Nevada BEER CAMP collaboration pack, 12 different beers from 12 diff partner breweries...

Yes, you'll convert just fine -- the beer will likely dry 1 or two points more (not necessarily a bad thing, to my tastes - depending on style. I intentionally mash at 148 for some beers like big IIPA's.

Avoid ANYTHING related to Camels or camel by-products as an ingredient in your beer. I feel you would be disappointed.

a 2x4 or brick or other thickness depending on rate of slope (easy to measure) under one leg of the top tier, on the downhill side. The other two legs perpendicular to the axis drawn by the single leg on the riser.

That temperature is hit during the manufacture of the tincture. I would add it in a true secondary, absent any yeast (i.e. cold crash primary) or my personal preference would be straight to the keg. I can't imagine any harm caused.

so dstreetbrew and I agree.. It's settled :P It needs to be in an oil based tincture added at time of kegging. For effect, it should probably added to a Rauchbier made with about 50% smoked malt....

Not even a consumer here.... but the only way I believe you'd get any carryover of thc in there is through a tincture added at bottling. Dry hopping is perhaps an option as well, but any heat applied would neutralize the thc without a fat present (lipids) the lipids protect it (as the...

A similar thread I started with some good info in it: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/e-hlt-w-no-pid-ssr-bcs-www-xxx-466652/

I love malted rye in excess of 20% of the grainbill. I've brewed Denny Conn's Wry Smile Rye IPA 5 times now and it is so flawless.

In my experience, it's not necessary -- Centennial will bitter just fine.

45m would just add more bitterness and nearly zero of either flavor or aroma Just ran the numbers with: 1oz Cent @60 1oz Amarillo @15 1oz Cent @10 2oz Amarillo @0 Gives you 64ibu in a 6% beer Looks about perfect! Dry hop with one or the other or both...

Both dry hop well, a bump in amarillo in the end can't hurt either.

IMO, you're moving the 30m addition in the wrong direction... move it to 15m or 10m, not 45m

And you could throw the extra ounce in at flameout, for no additional IBUs or throw it in as additional dryhop