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I'm brewing a heady topper clone and it calls for 5.5 oz of dry hops split in half and added at two different times. One in the primary, and one in the secondary a week later. Why wouldn't I just add them all in at once? What's the science behind this that makes the extra work worth it...

Thanks for the reply. I have not been adding an acid so there's something for me to improve on. Regarding sulfate, as you mention it is not listed. Does that mean it's not present or just not tested for? In either case would you add something to raise sulfate?

I've been brewing all grain for some time now but feel like my beers always lack something to really make them awesome and I'm beginning to think that water is the culprit since I feel the rest of my processes are pretty solid and I've completely ignored my water parameters, though I did...

Just wanted to follow up to say I let it warm back up and it finished at 1.09. Thank you for the better safe than sorry advice since I Really wanted to just bottle it.

Using WLP001 I'm at 1.012 and my recipe called for 1.011, so it looks like I fully fermented. So should I get the yeast to warm up so they do the cleaning up that I see recommended here, or should I bottle and plan to let them condition in the bottle longer than normal.?

I got my brew schedule messed up and realized I cold crashed one of my batches after only 1 week. It's been at 35 degrees for a few days now. Assuming fermentation is complete (I'll check gravity) what should I do? Go ahead and bottle or let it come back up to fermentation temperature? Thanks

Ever since I went to all grain my brew days are so long that I find myself brewing less often - terrible. Can I do all my lautering/sparging during an evening, leave the pot covered overnight, and then do my boil tomorrow? Or is that way too risky?

Fermentation just started. I guess the sticky about fermentation taking up to three days is true. I just hadn't seen it like this before. Thanks everyone for the help. You are awesome as always.

Yes. Lots of hissing like I would expect.

Yeast was 2 months old, white labs British ale yeast. Pitched and kept between 70 and 78 degrees. I aerated by shaking initially, and then a few times each day.

Oooooh ya. Thanks! Gravity is still at 1.04. Could it be that it just hasn't taken off yet? It's been stored at California room temperature so it should be warm enough.

I made a starter 2.5 days ago. 2L of water and 6oz DME. Normally I'm used to seeing little co2 bubbles in the starter and some krausen on the sides. For whatever reason I never saw that this time. Anecdotally I want to say that there is more yeast at the bottom, but I could just be imagining...

Initial fermentation...nice. I'm going to steal that.

If he doesn't mean an *extra* 1/3 consider my mind blown.

I'm trying to brew a 1.072 OG Pumpkin Stout (Yummy! Out of my thread pumpkin haters!). I'm using yeastcalc.com and it says I need 261 B cells to make this beer. Using the calculator, it seems I can make a single 2L starter to yield 255 B cells or I can make two 1L starters and yield 265 B...

If I wanted my beer ready in six weeks, would I be better off leaving it in the bucket for 4 weeks and bottling for two, or vice versa. This assumes that final gravity was met and carb level was good. What if you had infinite time? What timing would you pick?

Gravity readings confirmed what you guys already knew. Thanks for the knowledge!

This morning I took my 6.5 gallon carboy out of my fermentation chamber to move to the bottling area to settle for some time before bottling. Two hours later as I was walking by I noticed it's still bubbling about 1 bubble every 30 seconds. It's been 16 days @ 67 degrees for fermentation...

I've read plenty of threads where homebrew experts have advised us new brewers to let the bottles sit undisturbed. I have to admit, I always read that thinking, "Sure, but that won't fix my earliest attempts where I really screwed up. That advice is for other people." My first brew about 6...

Lol winner