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I did build my own controller using a little arduino uno, I enjoyed learning how to program it (i do write code in VBA, C#, and use a variety of scripting tools like matlab/R for work, so learning programming was more a matter of syntax for me as opposed to entirely learning something). With...

I like your idea, and had similar thoughts, but some issues you run into are that the pid is tuned to a specific amount of heat, which may be more difficult to replicate each time with a potentiometer. It would probably not work as well for any amount of electricity other than what the pid was...

Yea, I'm really happy with the product!!

I use this rims kit, works great, easy to clean: https://www.brewhardware.com/product_p/rims.htm When I set the bed, I usually mean that I Mix up the mash, then let it settle without any pump draw or recirculation for a few mins, like 5. I'm toying with the idea of using a grain bag with my...

I decided to go with a rims tube, for me it really boiled down to not wanting my wort flowing through a coil that I could never disassemble and visually see how clean it was. I just don't trust only running oxy clean or pbw through it... I run a 6000w lwd density element at 220v when heating...

Sorry, never saw you had a question... Yes, just wire it up after the ssr before the element outlet.

I use two of these as master kill switches to my outlets, I recommend them... It works great when you need to kill heat quickly for boilovers or when adding hops. Hit the switch and the boil stops instantly, unlike my gas burner which had a delay before the boil stopped...

Yea, the difference in price was just a couple bucks I think... Not that I've had any fail, but worth it on my opinion. I got mine from ebrewsupply....

Glad to hear it's working, I did the same thing and tried to verify everything before firing it up, that's where I found the bit about needing a special device to test ssr's (which I don't have, nor do I know exactly what it is), so then I also just decided just to fire it up!! Worked like a...

Glad to hear...what are the issues you are troubleshooting? Not getting a signal from the pid? No current to the element? Or is everything all good now?

Excellent point doggy, I'm not going to argue with you, thanks for the great input!! Edit: And yes, the link was added maybe 30s after the post, another excellent point!!

LOL, I guess this is just over your head... That's the point, you can't use a meter to test alone, you need a load hooked up in order to be able to measure with just a meter if it's dead or not...which the load (like a light) would tell you anyway. Otherwise you need special equipment to test...

Good post, Doggie!! The poster asked how to test with continuity... Which is what I was answering (and your post(s) failed to address). But like I also iterated through the link, light bulbs work to test too...

If I recall correctly, you need some type of special equipment to test an ssr and can't do it with just a regular voltage meter... Edit: This link may help http://smokedprojects.blogspot.com/2013/09/solid-state-relay-module.html?m=1

Thanks BrokenHorn and carpenike!! I'm going to have to do that!! :)

I'm sure others will disagree with me, but I don't like my sight glass, it's a pain to clean, not all that accurate (my fault admittedly), and in my opinion not much better than eye balling things...(half of the 15.5 gal keg is marked, as is thirds with the rings) I'm in the process of plugging...

That's not correct for our heating elements... This may be true for devices that operate at a fixed level, but these are just big resistors, that's why people say that when you operate a 5500w element rated at 240v on 120v, you only get 1/4 the heat/watts output. Search for the...

+1...I have the same question I do for this but I'm not sure if it's necessary or not. My thoughts are there is still wort under the element too..not just in the elbow. I do drain from a side valve to my fermenter to avoid as much cold break and hop matter as possible from chilling...

I got one from stilldragon.com, and others from brewershardware.com... It would just depend on what all else I was ordering at the time to save on shipping They also both had the 2" to 1/2"male npt fittings to connect the ball valve as well... Maybe this pic will help you...