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This appears to be a likely cause. All manufacturers of these types of pumps, including Chugger and March, state that limiting the flow on the inlet side of the pump can lead to pump failure. If the pump actually ran for more than a few seconds while the valve was restricting flow, I would just...

Yes, that is one that Augie linked to in his recommendations.

I use a syringe. 1.5 ml/qt, 6 ml/gallon. A small bottle lasts forever when you mix it up in quart sized batches in a spray bottle.

Buy the best professional spray bottle you can find. The cheap ones just end up pissing you off. I haven't mixed up StarSan in any other container for a year. I can carry it around with one finger. 1.5 ml of StarSan per 32 oz of water.

If you stir, don't touch it till all the grain is wet. Bobby was using a keggle with a false bottom and 120V pump. (I looked for the video, but all I could find were his ones where he added the water first. Maybe it wasn't Bobby.) I use a cooler with a cpvc manifold, sometimes with a 24V...

I started adding the mash water from the bottom of the grain bed after watching a video in which Bobby at Brewhardware recommended it. No more dough balls, even with a Marris Otter grain bill. Just add through the MLT drain valve through the false bottom. Results in a gentle soaking of the...

Your final gravity may end up slightly higher than expected. You will still have good beer. Let us know.

To keep the instructions as simple as possible for new brewers. Pitching dry will work. Rehydrating will make your yeast happier, and might improve your beer. I have done both with good results.

While I appreciate and also like to save where I can, spray bottles are the least costly of brewing equipment. Treat yourself and buy the best quality you can. You will not miss the extra $2.

Here is mine. Made out of junk I have laying around. 3/8 drill bit with a 3/8 bronze bushing. Aluminum block tapped for tension adjustment. Not very clean, but it works.

Here is a useful post I used from another of Augie's threads:

I have had the same issue with hard water and oxyclean. My understanding is that PBW includes ingredients to help counteract this issue. The less expensive homemade PBW recipe below alleviates this issue for me. I think the 7th Gen. dishwashing detergent provides the chelate to "soften" the...

This is the first I have heard this. Mine works great with pwm. Check out a few of Augie's posts on the subject. He has been using these successfully with different combinations for a while.

I believe this will work, but TSP90 ingredients more closely correspond with real PBW. I now use TheTrevster's recipe from this thread with good results. You will also find some discussion pertaining to your question. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=467655

Coffee containers work well for specialty grains, but I do have to let them sit with some crushed charcoal and baking soda for a while to remove the coffee aroma. This room is normally dark, so I don't worry about the clear containers.

I don't have that issue with mine. I have pretty much infinite adjustment with a smooth twist of a knob. At the low end, it goes from a trickle to off.

I mounted mine on a mobile stand for now. I have used it on 2 ten gallon brew days, pumping from the MLT and BK through the CFC. I gravity sparge the MLT prior to transfer to avoid grain particles. Works like a champ so far and cleaned up great with circulated hot pbw (home made).

Venturi. I found this medical grade valve that I can adjust the air flow with. Any small orifice will do. Works better when the hose is submerged.

That's exactly what my back said to me.