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Skip any outside the bottle. How long has the seel been broken? Plus that looks like a huge amount of yeast for a five or ten gallon batch.

I don't think you 'can't' make a batch with all that Munich, I just don't know how APA/IPA esque it would be. But looking around, I was reading some reports of 30% Munich for IPA/APAs with good results. I wonder though, how well such a beer would condition in two weeks... But hey why not...

It's good to first pour in priming solution, wrap your siphon hose a bit along the bottom of bottling bucket (or I bottle from kettle but either way) and allow the beer to swirl, integrating the beer into the priming solution. No stir.

:tank:

You don't need to (I never have), and if you choose to do so, don't do it until after properly bottle conditioned (heat pasteurizing will kill yeast, you're priming solution will not ferment, and there will be no carbonation). Short answer: No, don't.

Sorry, forgot about the 22 oz thing. The new calculation I got was .15 oz brown sugar per bottle, or 4.32 grams. Food for thought

I ran it through homebrewdad's priming calculator (using 0.09375 gallons ie one 12 oz bottle). It says, for brown sugar use .08 oz, or 2.31 grams per bottle. If you have a gram scale, you're golden. http://www.homebrewdad.com/priming_sugar_calculator.php -I just randomly selected American IPA...

10 gallons? You'll need more base malt (pale malt)-- say a good 10 lbs or so. Although I am not sure it'll all fit into mash tun with the 6 ga or what ever you will mash with.... Maybe do a five gallon batch? If you do so, I might suggest: 5 ga batch -10 lbs pale malt -1/2 lb munich -1/4...

The glucose is not essential- any sugar will ferment. However, sucrose is more fermentable, and thus less is required (roughly 25% less).

What was the batch size, and how much priming sugar (and what sugar, ie, dextrose?) did you use? What temp were they bottle conditioning at? Generally speaking, the trick is to do one oz dextrose per gallon of beer, allow three weeks in the bottles @ 70 degrees F, then cold storage.

+ 5 gallons citra centennial brown ale 21307

Another vote for, "not."

+3 ga. imperial oatmeal brown ale = 18,116 ga

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I would think this would be categorised as a brown ale. As far as steeping vs mashing, it would convert more esp from the Maris otter (if you use it) and victory malt. Actually though 45 mins @ 150 should suffice. But yes- in the grain bag. Sparge as usual.

Here's an idea-- (5 Gallons.) -6.6 lbs sparkling amber extract (briess) lme (BUY) Mash (60mins @150)-- -1 lb maris otter (Just a thought but up to you) -.35 lbs victory malt -.25 lbs muntons crystal 60 l -.1 lb Roasted Barley Hops- Sorachi to bitter (1 oz-- 60 mins) -- never used myself but...

Beer hates you.. Just kidding. Welcome from WI

+1 on the stone cellar in Appleton. Great brewpub.

Four weeks? Rock on. Bottle away.

I made a great English IPA with two yeast strains (white labs Irish ale and wyeast Yorkshire ale)- simultaneous pitch. In the book "yeast" it is stated that there can be many benefits to mixing and because beer yeast grow at similar rates they don't have issues out competing each other. Try it!