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Apologies. I originally had a question about the fit to the pump. Looks like I had a 3/8” compression fitting instead of a FIP. Unfortunately I can’t delete the post [emoji849]

Any chance this post can be deleted?

I tried searching the thread and didn’t find what I was looking for. I have some wlp013 on hand. OP used wlp001 for the neutral profile. Anyone try 013 or a more “estery” yeast with this?

It was a poor solder on the TEE. I didn’t use a compression fitting as you show in the illustration, I soldered a 1/2”-3/8” reducer coupling to segregate the two lines. One of the solder joints at this reducer failed and began allowing water to pass through. I think the gap was a bit too big and...

I hadn't used the CFC in a few years so I assume the system to be dry. I only had the wort (internal) line connect, no cooling water. I was simply recirculating ~110F water and there was quite a bit of water dripping out of the hose connecting the outer (cooling) line. I probably collected a...

HB, glad to hear the IC works well with the system. Just to be clear, you simply set the IC in the boil kettle on top of the element after you kill the power? No issue with weight on the element, or loss of efficiency from the IC not reaching the bottom? I'll certainly check out Jaded...

I realize that I am replying to an old thread, but this seems to be the best resource for info regard CB20 builds. I built a system identical to JKarp's several years ago. After a brief hiatus I setup my equipment again and during testing discovered a leak in my CFC (liquid crossing from wort...

I realize this is an old thread, but this message addresses exactly what I'm trying to do. The thermostat in my fridge has the two leads Bobby is referring to, but also a ground on the thermostat housing. My plan is to remove the stock thermostat all together and wire the two contacts directly...

Hey APB! Did you ever give this approach a try? I too am interested in being able to set a time for my electric HLT to begin heating strike water. I’m struggling to figure out a way to do this for all the same reasons you described. If this didn’t work, did you pursue other routes?

I know this thread hasn’t been active, but hope I can still get some feedback. I’m curious about kettle material in this build. Seems aluminum is good when heat source is external due to thermal properties, but may fight against us when heat source is internal as it may lead to more heat...

I'm selling a countertop Brutus system. It is designed for 5 gallon batches and includes A 30 quart aluminum boil kettle outfitted with a 1500 watt water heater element A 5 gallon cylindrical cooler mash tun with a stainless steel braided hose for filtration A counter-flow chiller in a...

Just wanted to provide an update in case anyone references this thread later. The "burnt" or "charred" flavor that I had described in the early posts has subsided after chilling and carbonating the beer in the keg. That said I had poured a sample a week ago and it sat on the table for a while...

Thank you for the input. If tannins simply contribute astringency to the beer then I suspect it is a feeling of "dryness" in the beer and not a flavor as you said. The charred/burnt flavor must be coming from the element. What puzzles me is how much presence the flavor has considering the...

I recently attempted to brew the Lake Walk Pale Ale recipe (all grain) shown below. I substituted Victory malt for the Toasted Pale Malt. Otherwise the recipe is identical. There were a few issues that I encountered during the brew: I use an aluminum kettle with a 1500 watt heating...

Hello all. I've been using this website for roughly a year and it has been tremendously helpful. I've never needed to post anything as I haven't had anything to contribute and all of my questions have been asked/answered by others. Now I'm at a point where I would like to post and thought I'd...