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My take, FWIW: I'm not a fan of CTZ for bittering. I much prefer a more (to me) neutral big alpha bittering hop for a 60min addition or FWH -- usually Warrior or Magnum. When I was looking to brew a "dank" IPA, I found lots of posts to this effect -- so for me limiting the CTZ to flameout +...

So I've a question: Do you really have 3 gal into fermenter, with a 60 min boil and 4 gal pre-boil volume? I boil off nearly a gallon per hour, and with sludge and loss to hops, and I aim for 3.5 gal into fermenter (yes, I do 3 gal batches too), I target a pre-boil volume of nearly 6 gallons.

Totally agree with Yooper. I rarely rack to secondary, but I've never had a noticeable oxidation problem from it. And I can't believe this would be the cause of "no hop presence" in an otherwise well-crafted IPA recipe. So... Recipe please, with hop schedule used?

Hi! My standard malt bill for an IPA is something like 90% 2-row 5% wheat or Vienna 5% Crystal 20 I like a super-clean neutral malt bill to showcase the hops, but this time I'd like to get less of the "muddy" color I seem to with the above, and get closer to the color of one of...

If you're not stuck on pellets, I got a batch of 2015 Mosaic as whole cones, from http://freshops.com/cgi-bin/shopper.cgi?search=action&category=HOPS&keywords=all&template=PDGCommTemplates/hops.html

bleme, did you get any response to this, or did you try a Lupulin River clone yourself? This is probably my favorite hoppy beer these days, and I'm trying to figure out a malt bill for what the website says is "Color: Liquid Gold" . Left to my own devices, I'd use like 85% 2-row, and the...

Looks like a good recipe! I recently brewed what I'm calling a "really dank IPA", after doing a lot of research on what people generally agreed on what "dank" means to them. I found several folks who favor Chinook in later additions, not in early ones. So mine was just -- Bittering...

To the OP: I do this all the time. I do 3 gal brews, usually using White Labs yeast. From the yeast calculator I use, no starter is usually low in cell count, but even a 1L starter is far over-pitching. So I generally make a starter, use half, and save half in the fridge (and label it with the...

+1 to tschafer. I used to obsess over my brewhouse efficiency, which is nowhere near as high as most folks seem to get. But who cares? If it means I need an extra 1/2 # of grain to hit my OG, as long as I can do it *consistently*, I'm a happy camper!

They're certainly dried, else they'd be full of mold. I brew almost exclusively with (dried) whole cones these days, and I just use the weight of hops from the recipe. Don't be surprised at the massive VOLUME you'll get from an ounce of whole hops vs pellets! I don't use hop bags since the...

Maybe I missed it, but what was your PRE-BOIL SG? With your pre-boil SG, your pre-boil volume, and your post-boil SG, you can calculate your post-boil volume (and hence your boil-off). Also the pre-boil SG will point at your conversion efficiency.

Also, note that the water spreadsheet in BrewersFriend doesn't *tell* you what salts/acids/etc. to add. It just tells you what the *effect* of your additions might make. I just change the values for my additions until I get a mash pH, a "bitterness" profile (SO4 / Cl ratio), and appropriate...

Wow, thanks everybody for the great replies. I'll try to summarize (and answer some questions): 1. My predicted OGs are in the .040 - .060 range. My pre-boil effs do not seem to correlate that well to the size of the grain bill / predicted OG. 2. I completely agree with m00ps that...

Yes, I'm using brewersfriend, pretty happy with it. Its "All Grain OG, FG, ABV Calculator" for the brew I did on Saturday shows that my pre-boil eff was 70%, given my grain bill + my volume of wort into kettle. If, during my recipe building, I use such an efficiency, then I'd hit my numbers...

I knew I'd forget something... I crush grains at the LBHS, and having been burned before, I now pass all grains through the mill twice. Inspection tells me that the crush seems fine (though I'm no grizzled expert). I'm also doing 60min mashes. I'm doing water additions as per...

Note: I'm specifically referring to "Pre-Boil Efficiency" as defined here: http://www.brewersfriend.com/brewhouse-efficiency/ I believe that I am not getting the sugars out of my grain bill, during mashing, that I think I should. I went back for my last several brew days, and I have pre-boil...

Thanks all for the replies. I hadn't considered my thermometer being off -- it's a fairly cheap digital instant read, for home kitchen use. I wonder if I've just been mashing too darn hot all these brews? For aeration: I don't have oxygen, I just vigorously swirl in my fermenting bucket...

I keep a spreadsheet of all my brews, and I just added a column for yeast attenuation, based on the http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew/beginners-attenuation-and-flocculation-definitions. Looking at it, I see some (seemingly) surprisingly low attenuation values: WLP 001: 72% (OG: 70...

I've only been brewing for a couple of years, but I've found that racking to secondary means I get cleaner final beers. I know, I've read all the "it'll all clean up just fine in primary" posts, but my experience is otherwise. So I use a secondary for all my "clear" beers, and don't bother for...

Sorry if this is obvious, but the 85.6% efficiency -- what type of efficiency? Pre-boil? Total brewhouse? I've always just calculated my total BH eff, and it's typically in the 60-65% range. I just ran the pre-boil eff calculation, and my last brew was at 82%...