Search results

Sorry for the slow response. What's still left is the beer gun, the bottle tree, the Chugger pumps, the counterflow chiller and an assortment of random tri-clamp stuff including a number of ball valves and two heating element adapters.

So it’s been more than four years since I’ve brewed, and I’m faced with these facts: 1. I’m the only person in the house who drinks beer. 2. Drinking more than one beer per day in my old age has unpleasant consequences. 3. We’re temporarily moving out to enable a big remodel of the...

Logged in for the first time in a year, just for this!

Sign me up!

+1

Yep.

That's actually the reason I'm asking. I've seen pictures of people's setups where the hose is not clamped to the barb. For that matter, I have had no problems with the hose just sitting on the barb of my current cooler-based MT. So I'm curious what people consider to be "standard practice".

I'm in the process of building a new rig and there's an operational thing I'm not clear on. Let's say I've got hose barbs tri-clamped to the kettle. When I want to switch from circulating in the mash tun to filling the brew kettle, would I transfer the hose from barb to barb? Or the barb from...

My personal sense (as someone who likes rye) is that 100% rye isn't a good idea. Have you had a roggenbier or anything else in the 50-60% range? I would try something like that before going for this.

I'm perfectly happy with 4500W given that it's a 10 gallon system and that I'm building a "back-to-back" control panel capable of running both elements at the same time. So for the HLT, I think I'll use the Camco 02642/02643 HWD element. It fits a 9" tank and should therefore have clearance to...

The reason I said 6" extension tube was because that's the shortest length carried by Brewer's Hardware. Some quick searches didn't find anything shorter, so that may put me into the realm of custom work. Alternatively, I could use a tee and close off the third port -- that would probably be...

Where can these be purchased in the US?

The Hayward element could be good for the HLT. Do you know its length? And does it fit a standard water heater thread/socket? I realize belatedly that there's nothing magical about particular elements with respect to power-density. It's a simple equation of total power / total surface area --...

Interesting idea! The heating element port is tri-clover, so using something like a 6" tri-clover extension could make things work physically. I'd be worried, though, about the lack of circulation in the extension tube. Wouldn't that create the risk of scorching there? Is there any reason not...

It looks like my poor planning skills have bested me in a spectacular fashion. I have ordered a set of 9.3 gallon kettles from Stout Tanks with the intent to use electric heating. The kettles have a 12.75" diameter. I had expected to use the Camco ultra-low density elements but hadn't realized...

Thanks; the strain relief cord grip looks perfect!

To be clear about the wiring, I'm not talking about the power cord to the control panel; I'm talking about purely inside-the-enclosure wiring; the short distance from power-in to ground and the buses. EDIT: Actually, I guess it's really just from power-in to the power-in contactor. And if I...

I'm building a 2 PID, 50a control panel. I've purchased a kit from ebrewsupply and am also referencing some relevant information from Kal's site. 1. I've noticed that no one seems to have a 50a NEMA inlet. The ones linked to by Kal have only a non-NEMA configuration. What (if anything) needs...

So a sweet stout make with (say) 15% crystal might be too sweet and too malty and not creamy enough compared to one made with lactose?

I'm interested in making a sweet stout. What would be the effect of using (say) 10-15% crystal malt for sweetness instead of lactose or oatmeal? I haven't seen any recipes which do that -- which tends to make me suspect it's not worth trying.