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A good rule of thumb for a mash is strike water is 12 degrees higher than desired mash temp. not perfect but will be pretty close and not kill all enzymatic reaction, which is most likely what happened, 176 -> 164 (you got 168) so for 154 about 166-8? you really don't want to use strike water...

You put 100% of the hop matter into the fermenter?

A proper whirlpool can not be achieved this way, the obstruction of the drill head would ruin the flow of particulate. The trub/break moves in a donut shaped pattern, up through the middle, then down the outside wall and back towards the middle. If you put a paddle mixer in the middle of that...

How'd that turn out? remember? I would guess some higher alcohols and maybe some extra haze from beating up the yeast, but maybe a loooooooonnngggg layering would help. either way should be interesting.

5 years is a long time for any beer. Just had a 5 year dfh world wide stout and it was mellow and good. Had a 5 year Weyerbacher double simcoe ipa and it was not. Tasted of oranges and had definitely staled. Only way to find out is to try it, it shouldn't kill you.

That was my mistake, I meant flocculation, I apologize to anyone who read that, thats what I get for responding to threads at 7 am after a night full of bourbon... scott b

Definitely all correct, wasn't bringing it up as a fear as much as something to know about when making cider, because even though it is not enough to kill you it is not the most desirable flavor. Most of my understanding about methanol comes from distilling books, not cider/beer books, where it...

It will stay the same, some things won't age or filter. Maybe if you oak aged it? Not sure but might be worth experimenting. Here are the reasons for this happening though, so check your processes before the next batch. I know I forgot to sani my keg after caustic and ruined the batch. HIGH...

I found an old lab stirplate/hot plate on eBay for like $50, like the ones found in a HS science class. Nice because u can actually keep the yeast at proper temp. A stir plate is not a necessity for doing a yeast starter, it just helps. A couple of things I've picked up doing them though: Make...

This one might be the winner. You had me at Coors drinker.

U don't need enzymes with an extract brew, specialty grains contain almost no fermentable sugars, which is what enzymatic activity is for, converting raw starches into fermentable sugars, ie Maltose. By adding extract during a boil, even 20 minutes this beer will work, even with an overnight...

You should definitely be careful with this, as Fructose and pectins can lead to larger amounts of methanol production, especially with a poorly attenuating yeast strain and a chance for infection. Methanol is turned into formaldehyde in the liver and then destroys the optic nerve. It takes a...

Autolysis is not a myth, that you can be sure of. However, wine making and beer making are two different things (thankfully) and autolysis is not something brewers want, although it is part of the life cycle. That is why yeast is dumped as soon as primary is over ( and to reuse it). The beer is...

If its a three piece airlock, u can take the lid off, take the bubbler out and push a hose on the piece coming out of the middle, or, take the whole bubbler out and jam a hose into the grommet that fits tightly. Either way, put the other end in a pint glass about 1/3 full of water and let it go...

Hey, not sure if anyone is still looking at this, but if so a couple of things: 1. NEVER EVER use chemically ionized softened water to brew with. The idea in this is that Ca2+ (and to a lesser degree Mg2+) is replaced with Na+, or sodium, at a level that is unsuitable for brewing. under...