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It just means you got a slightly better efficiency during the mashing processes. what is on the bottom isn't dense enough to support that lead weighted hydrometer.

No it is used to make flour which is too fine for beer. Second just get a corona style mill like rm-mn suggested since it will pay for it self from the savings of buying your grain in bulk.

Nothing to worry about, they will settle to the bottom.

Infusion mashing is the process of achieving the rest temperatures either by adding measured amounts of water heated to carefully calculated temperatures to the mash or using direct heat to heat the mash. Adding the work "upward" is someones attempt to clarify what type of infusion mash he is...

More then likely it wasn't quit done fermenting. Let it go and when the activity stops check the FG till it steadies.

Do not do step 5. It looks like you'll be introducing to much Co2 to you wort. The yeast still needs some O2 to produce the Co2 for carbonation. I would dissolve my priming sugar in a small amount of sterile water and then either add it to your beer or pour you beer onto your water/sugar...

absolutley nothing and do nothing! it's just fine let the yeast do its thing.

I've done this before and it will take about 24hrs for a 5 gal batch.

Orange Zest still has some of the pith so will add bitterness to your brew. So you'll either have to cut back on your hops slightly or go to you LHBS and pick up some sweat orange peel. which ever method you use I have always added 1oz to the last 5 min of the boil.

I think you will just have to let it age and some of the bitterness will mellow out.

Now he's hooked! Prepare to open your wallet and your mouth as the beers get better and better. Well most will be better, have to have a dude here and there.

Everyone here answered your question, Is secondary Necessary? Everyone here answered that they sometimes do and sometimes don't, if at all. So the answer must be NO. Also you must form your own opinion on this from your own brewing experiences.

If you have a pot big enough to handle the full 5 gallons then mash with a full batch. I agree with bleme do whichever way works best for you. How ever IMO I would boil with 6.5 gallons in order to reduce the chance of caramelizing the DME/LME on the bottom of your pot, I think adding that...

That looks right, add about 3lbs of grain.

Mostly what I have read, I haven't done it myself, is to dry it at 100-125 for a day then raise the temp slowly to 140-160 till you have the same weight you started with. This will give you a moisture level of 2-6 percent. So a couple of days at 90 seems right.

I can profide a hop chart. http://www.hopunion.com/17_HopVarieties.cfm

on average you will boil off 1.5 gallons of water during your boil. so you'll want to have at least 6.5 gallons for the boil to end up with 5 gallons. So it should be mash water + sparge water = 6.5 gallons.

Yeast can only ferment simple sugars. the sugar in your granola bar is both complex and simple so not all of it will ferment to alcohol. Post your recipe and perhaps we can help.

If your making a new batch then the amarillo will do fine. I'm afraid your out of luck on the one that is already made.

Yes it is a beer and my wife loves it. Adding any type of LME will just make it sweeter so I would increase the hops.