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Drill a hole in a paint can and put the light bulb in the can... plenty of heat without the light. I think I'm gonna put two bulbs in mine in case one burns out while I'm not looking.

Great idea but no webcam... Recipe is an English Mild 12g 10lb Maris Otter 2lb crystal 60 1lb crystal 120 .5lb victory 1oz 12.2% magnum @ 60min 2oz US Golding @ 5min Nottingham Any suggestions on the recipe? I set me efficiency at 85% but am hoping closer to 90.

Tomorrow morning (Wednesday) is going to be the inaugural brew on the new system. I didn't keep an updated build thread on the website so check the blog if your interested in that. Basically I built a system from scratch and purchased everything from fermenters to grain mill, kegs, chiller...

I've been thinking about this sort of thing as this winter I am not only brewing outside but storing most of my equipment out in the garage where it only stays about 5* above outside temps. I'm definitely going to need to have a space inside to store things like CFC, water filter, and maybe even...

Paint color was a last minute decision and I figured everyone was going black so I would do something different. I wish it were a bit darker but what the heck, it's done! Running the neutral is a must and I told my electrician that but he didn't seem to agree. Granted he hasn't seen the control...

Dead to alive was as simple as adding a fourth leg to the main power. I'll expound in the morning. Thanks to all who helped!

It's...... ALIVE!!!

Question... It doesn't look like there is a ground connecting the control panel power cord to the spa panel. Am I seeing that right?

Can I just wire the neutral into the ground to test it?

Power is coming off a 40amp breaker to the spa panel and then to the control panel. We used 10/4 cable but he only hooked up hot/hot/ground. I got power when I fired the thing up the first time and cooked the volt dc regulator. Since then, no sign of power. I haven't tested voltage coming...

Yes. I told my electrician exactly what I needed but didn't check his work like an idiot... This should cause the neutral bus to be uneffective and the 120v stuff to not work at all, including the power switch. The schematic is the same as Kals, I naught the unassembled edition.

I checked the relay just now and there is consistent resistance throughout the them all. The neutral bus is registering kinda funny so I checked the power coming into the panel and my electrical guy didn't feel it was necessary to hook up the neutral even though I told him it needs to be able to...

Also, I plan on switching around an element relay with the main relay to see if that's the problem. I just don't know what else could have been fried.

My friend and I built the Kal control panel, triple checked everything to make sure it was wired properly, turned it on and it shorted out because the adjustable dc power supply touched the back plate. When I turned the panel on the blue power light flashed and the main power relay turned on and...

I'm Thomas. Don't mind shorter versions but have always introduced myself as Thomas. Everyone calls me Thomas except my two best friends (Tommy), my boss (T-Bone) and an eccentric high school teacher who called me Thorpenstein... Last name is Thorpe. That's my life in a nutshell.

I used a Milwaukee 3/4" hole saw and a corded, low rpm drill and a bit of cutting oil. Worked like a charm and I got 8 holes drilled in minutes and the bit is still in good shape...

I'm only running one element at a time and I think it was 12/4, not 14/4 that I was thinking of.

I've seen 14/4 rated at 300v and 30amp per lead...

I have a hookup at mcmaster and get the cable for less than $2 foot which is still pricey when u need 60' but it's a lot better than most places.