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MendenhallBrewingCo

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Are spider nets or any kind of filter/netting take away the flavor of the wort after fermenting / before bottling? Or is the gunk good for the wort?
 
Have to disagree with Timree here. Many brewers make no attempts to filter from the kettle to the fermenter and make excellent beer. Some podcasts have done comparisons and brewer surveys and not found any detriment to the beer. One issue that often comes up is the idea that the trub will make your finished beer cloudy. It does not.

If you're using a bucket, I've heard of some brewers lining the bucket with a nylon paint straining bag, pouring the wort in and removing the bag, thereby filtering out much of the trub. This will also helps to aerate the wort, which is a bonus. You should not do this at the bottling stage, however, because after fermentation is complete, aerating your beer is detrimental.
 
Leave that last bit and mark it as necessary lost. Trying to get it will only disappoint flavor wide. You'll wind up only breaking the trub down and mixing it in even worse.
 
Yeah. Trub isn't good in the bottle. Trub should be dumped before yeast is added to wort in the primary. As timree mentioned, trub is protein goop, ketones, polyphenols, fatty acids and a thing called simple amino acids. Since, amino acids and cerain fatty acids are used by yeast as an energy source, it's the complex amino acids, and fatty acids, broken down during an acid and albumin rest, that don't cause off flavors. Yeast will work on the simple amino acid and useless fat in the trub "by products of fermantation" and create fusil alcohol and off flavors. Shelf life and stability of the beer is reduced. If a few knuckle draggers are doing pod casts telling brewers trub is OK. Maybe so, in a beer that is chugged down after 2 weeks in a bottle. There are posts that mention, beer tasted OK at 2 weeks, at 3, an "alcoholy" taste was evident, at 4 weeks, more off flavors. The alcoholy and off flavors were already in the beer. The taste of the green beer masked them. After the green aged out and mellowed, the off flavors came to the forefront.
 
Yeah. Trub isn't good in the bottle. Trub should be dumped before yeast is added to wort in the primary. As timree mentioned, trub is protein goop, ketones, polyphenols, fatty acids and a thing called simple amino acids. Since, amino acids and cerain fatty acids are used by yeast as an energy source, it's the complex amino acids, and fatty acids, broken down during an acid and albumin rest, that don't cause off flavors. Yeast will work on the simple amino acid and useless fat in the trub "by products of fermantation" and create fusil alcohol and off flavors. Shelf life and stability of the beer is reduced. If a few knuckle draggers are doing pod casts telling brewers trub is OK. Maybe so, in a beer that is chugged down after 2 weeks in a bottle. There are posts that mention, beer tasted OK at 2 weeks, at 3, an "alcoholy" taste was evident, at 4 weeks, more off flavors. The alcoholy and off flavors were already in the beer. The taste of the green beer masked them. After the green aged out and mellowed, the off flavors came to the forefront.

Wow, what a bunch of misinformation. Off flavors and fusel alcohols are caused by too high of a fermentation temperatures, not the trub left in the fermenter. Beers can be fermented on the trub and still come out clear and with improving flavors for months.
 
I can only tell you what happens. I can't tell you how to undeerstand it.
 
OP: post #2 was the best answer. It is desireable to transfer as little gunk as possible to the bottles. There will still be enough yeast floating around to work on the priming sugars and carbonate the beer.

I do not think spider netting and other screens are fine enough to filter the trub from the fermented wort. Trub, as said, is yeast cells and byproducts. Single cells and molecules. Small stuff. You would need something like a reverse osmosis filter, and careful siphoning is easier.

let us know how the beer turns out :mug:

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There seems to be a confusion in the rest of the discussion. The original question was not trub from kettle to fermenter, but fermenter to bottles. Post #2 mentioned transfer of trub from kettle to the fermenter. I am new to brewing and do not appreciate unhelpful references to knuckle-draggers, regardless if the information is accurate or not, so I researched the effects of kettle trub in the fermenter.

Here is a good explanation of the science behind hot break, the formed trub, and its effects in fermenting. Neat stuff.

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Carry on the fisticuffs. Check your shillelaghs at the door.
 
There are some basic brewing practices you can use to clarify your brew and minimize trub, no filtering needed. Note that a small amount of trub in bottle conditioned beer is a fact of life. You cannot totally eliminate it.

1) bag your hops
2) use 1/2 whirlfloc tablet @ 10 min before the end of the boil
3) after you finish chilling, cover the kettle and let things settle 15-20 minutes
4) leave as much of the break material and other gunk behind in the kettle as you reasonably can
5) when fermentation is done and if you have the means to do it, cold crash 4-5 days @35-36*F. This will cause the beer to clarify and make the trub layer (aka, "yeast muck") much more firm so that it is less likely to get sucked up in your autosiphon/racking cane when transferring to the bottling bucket.

Once your beer has fermented, trying to filter it will cause oxidation which makes your beer go stale and taste like wet cardboard.

One thing you can do after bottle carbing/conditioning is to place your bottles in the fridge for at least three days before drinking. This will encourage yeast to drop out and firm up the trub layer so that, with careful pouring, you can leave it behind in the bottle.
 
WOW....This thread is a MESS!

Sry OP. Best thing i can add to this is to let your primary go for atleast 2 weeks and always use a fining agent in the boil.
I have never used a filter and have consistently clear beer time and time again, dont be upset about lost beer in the primary also.
Watch your siphon end and dont kick around the primary to much.

Cheers!

P.s Bigfloyds got it right,
If cold crashing is not an option, patience is a virtue!
 

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