More MLT questions (sorry!)

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Adam's Apples

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Right. I have a 36qt Coleman Xtreme cooler on order. Tonight I picked up some 15mm copper pipe and some push joint fittings, which should mean I dont have do attempt any soldering. Only thing I'm in need of now is the ball valve and washers etc.

I have it all almost straight in my head, but am not the most hands on person and I just thought - do you guys just run a clear tube (like on the auto-syphon) from the ball valve to take the runnings from the tun? I was thinking I could attach a length of this pipe and buy a litlle tap for the end to control the run off... or, is this what the ball valve does? Is the handle part of the valve what I use to turn the flow off or on?

I'm sure this will sound stupid, but as I said, I haven't been the most practical of people in the past, but I'm gonna change that now - with some help!

Cheers
 
No stupid questions around here.

The ball valve will control the flow of wort quite well. I attached some clear silicone tubing (about 3') to the end of my ball valve to control where it goes without having to move my MLT around. If you've looked at Flyguy's thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/ you can see its a nipple fitting on the end of the ball valve. Just push the tubing onto that. I was dumb and put some stuff in the MLT to store it and crushed my first SS braid pretty badly. :eek: Ended up having to replace it. If I had to do it over, I think I would have made a manifold from CPVC tubing and press fit it together. I guess I still could, but I haven't had any other problems with the new one.
Good luck and welcome to the joys of all grain. :D

Terje

PS Nobody said this that I read, and I probably should have realized it, but the actual ball valve body gets really hot when you get 150F wort flowing through it. At least the handle on my has a nice rubber coating, but depending on how tight you can make it fit with washers you may be tempted to grab the body of the valve to stabilize it when opening or closing. Forewarned is not burned, LOL.
 
Stratotankard said:
No stupid questions around here.

The ball valve will control the flow of wort quite well. I attached some clear silicone tubing (about 3') to the end of my ball valve to control where it goes without having to move my MLT around. If you've looked at Flyguy's thread https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/ you can see its a nipple fitting on the end of the ball valve. Just push the tubing onto that. I was dumb and put some stuff in the MLT to store it and crushed my first SS braid pretty badly. :eek: Ended up having to replace it. If I had to do it over, I think I would have made a manifold from CPVC tubing and press fit it together. I guess I still could, but I haven't had any other problems with the new one.
Good luck and welcome to the joys of all grain. :D

Terje

PS Nobody said this that I read, and I probably should have realized it, but the actual ball valve body gets really hot when you get 150F wort flowing through it. At least the handle on my has a nice rubber coating, but depending on how tight you can make it fit with washers you may be tempted to grab the body of the valve to stabilize it when opening or closing. Forewarned is not burned, LOL.
Click to expand...

Cheers for the info and the tip.

I have it all pictured now, soon as my deliveries are in I'm building it!

All-grain, here I come :rockin:
 

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