phoenixs4r
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- Jun 16, 2011
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Like most folks I started off my all grain brewing using this guide:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/
However, instead of the braid I purchased a false bottom:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/15571//Stainless_Steel_False_Bottom_12"_Diameter
And it worked fantastic. I only batch sparged but it was working really well. No real stuck sparges to speak of.
I decided to build a two tier and leave the mash tun and boil kettle at the same height, which introduced an issue. For our pumps to work successfully, a 1/2" ID is recommended.
Changing out the valve was simple enough, but unfortunately the false bottom supplied has a 3/8 barb (Which if you look close enough, is actually about 1/4 ID) The part is located here:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/6043//Stainless_-_1_2"_mpt_X_3_8"_Barb_Elbow
For some reason, they don't commonly make a 1/2" to 1/2" variant of it, and i needed 1/2" threads to 5/8" barb to maintain a 1/2" so I went back to the drawing board.
I had ordered an extra compression fitting and 5/8" OD stainless dip tube from Bobby_M, but it didn't fit. I considered cutting it, but the angle it's bent at makes it perfect for a keggle, not so much for this particular project.
I also tried different variations of street elbows, regular elbows, but they all raised the elbow too high on the false bottom, leading to a kinked silicone hose, which sucked.
I gave up a bit, and bought a kettle screen. My issues with this thing was really my own fault mostly. I use a stainless steel clay mixer to mix my mash up really well, and ultimately I'd have a few and the mesh would get caught in the mixer and twist close. I don't know if any of you have had the pleasure of trying to dump out 20+ pounds of grain and mash water to fix this issue, but it's really not fun. Also, I did this about 3 times before it actually split at the seam. My other issue is that it left over 1/2 gallon of mash wort behind, and I'm trying to tighten up my brewhouse efficiencies.
So, I took a piece of 1/2 copper I had left laying around after building my recirculation for my BK, and noticed that it fit perfectly in Bobby_M's compression dip tube. A quick run to the hardware store, I bought an elbow, and done! Really took my too long to figure it out. Plus it's copper, which I'm not a fan of, so I may ask Bobby to custom make me a dip tube after my bank account recovers from my last purchase from him. (Your products rock dude!)
This leaves a small gap in the original hole in the middle of the false bottom, which I covered with a silicon washer. The suction of the mash will hold it down. I'm going to see if I can find a copper washer and sweat it on some how later, but for now, it works.
Hope this helps anyone stuck in my position!
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/cheap-easy-10-gallon-rubbermaid-mlt-conversion-23008/
However, instead of the braid I purchased a false bottom:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/15571//Stainless_Steel_False_Bottom_12"_Diameter
And it worked fantastic. I only batch sparged but it was working really well. No real stuck sparges to speak of.
I decided to build a two tier and leave the mash tun and boil kettle at the same height, which introduced an issue. For our pumps to work successfully, a 1/2" ID is recommended.
Changing out the valve was simple enough, but unfortunately the false bottom supplied has a 3/8 barb (Which if you look close enough, is actually about 1/4 ID) The part is located here:
http://morebeer.com/view_product/6043//Stainless_-_1_2"_mpt_X_3_8"_Barb_Elbow
For some reason, they don't commonly make a 1/2" to 1/2" variant of it, and i needed 1/2" threads to 5/8" barb to maintain a 1/2" so I went back to the drawing board.
I had ordered an extra compression fitting and 5/8" OD stainless dip tube from Bobby_M, but it didn't fit. I considered cutting it, but the angle it's bent at makes it perfect for a keggle, not so much for this particular project.
I also tried different variations of street elbows, regular elbows, but they all raised the elbow too high on the false bottom, leading to a kinked silicone hose, which sucked.
I gave up a bit, and bought a kettle screen. My issues with this thing was really my own fault mostly. I use a stainless steel clay mixer to mix my mash up really well, and ultimately I'd have a few and the mesh would get caught in the mixer and twist close. I don't know if any of you have had the pleasure of trying to dump out 20+ pounds of grain and mash water to fix this issue, but it's really not fun. Also, I did this about 3 times before it actually split at the seam. My other issue is that it left over 1/2 gallon of mash wort behind, and I'm trying to tighten up my brewhouse efficiencies.
So, I took a piece of 1/2 copper I had left laying around after building my recirculation for my BK, and noticed that it fit perfectly in Bobby_M's compression dip tube. A quick run to the hardware store, I bought an elbow, and done! Really took my too long to figure it out. Plus it's copper, which I'm not a fan of, so I may ask Bobby to custom make me a dip tube after my bank account recovers from my last purchase from him. (Your products rock dude!)
This leaves a small gap in the original hole in the middle of the false bottom, which I covered with a silicon washer. The suction of the mash will hold it down. I'm going to see if I can find a copper washer and sweat it on some how later, but for now, it works.
Hope this helps anyone stuck in my position!