Recent content by wobdee

I've brewed nothing but Lagers for the last 3 years. Usually two 2.5gl batches per month, mostly light Lagers and ambers but an occasional dark thrown in there.

If you can procure your Co2 from someone on this list you will get 99.999% pure. I paid $21 for my last 5lb bottle. http://igsa.evansit.us/member-profiles?q=member-profiles

If you can procure your CO2 from one of these sources it should be 99.99% pure. http://www.igsa.com/member-profiles

You could try something like this to get an idea of what LODO can do. http://forum.germanbrewing.net/viewtopic.php?f=49&t=301&hilit=Mini+mash

This is interesting. Im sure other big breweries ferment somewhat warm for their Lagers but i also think they can get away with it because of the natural pressures in their HUGE fermenters which will help supress esters. There are some threads around about pressure fermentation that may be an...

No, a 2.5 with the short pipe and a 5 with the standard pipe. You can't brew a 2.5 gal batch with the standard 20l pipe so they basically cut it in half for smaller batches not larger. You still need the larger malt pipe for 5 gal batches.

The short malt pipe is designed for 2.5 gal batches not 5. You should have no problem with the standard 20l malt pipe for a 5 gal batch. You shouldn't have to sparge for a 5 gal batch as well, many use more water to start with and even flood the malt pipe to forgo the sparge.

This is where I'd start looking. When I used pure O2 I occasionally had some over attenuation issues. There's no way of really knowing how much O2 is in your wort without an O2 meter. I no longer oxygenate my wort, I oxygenate my yeast slurry in a jar with a little bit of wort and shake for...

Personally i like to condition and crush as close to mash in as possible. I think the night before is too long and could possibly lead to loss of malt flavor due to oxidation. I think of it this way, peel an apple the night before and see what oxygen does to it by the next day, same principle...

You could add your priming solution to your primary fermenter instead of keg, wait 1-2 hours for it to start up again then transfer to your sanitized purged keg.

I brew 3.5 gal batches, 3 of that goes to the fermenter, .5 is trub. I figure an extra handful of grain and efficiency loss is worth it. I also use a 75/25 Polyclar/Whirlfloc hydrated dose at 5 min before the boil end which seems to help with compacting the trub better than Whirlfloc or Irish...

Lol, Anvil told me the markings are by weight not volume. So I guess we need to weigh out the gallons by 8.34lb per gal and the marks will be correct?

I have the 4gl fermenter. My 2 and 3gl markings are off, reading about 1/4gl high. The 4gl mark is right on. Looking at the marks themselves there are 3 marks between 2 and 3gl and only 2 marks between 3 and 4gl. Other than that I really like the fermenter.

In

Saniclean = Starsan without the foam.