Recent content by Walker

exactly. If you did not have a hose attached to the output port hanging down from the thing, then the flow is going to stop as soon as the liquid level reaches the ball valve.

... and make sure you have told the PID that you have a RTD temp probe connected. Those things take many different sensor types, and that 100 Ohm resistor is mimicking a pt100 sensor. I think the PIDs come programmed to expect a K-type thermocouple by default.

Right. That's what I said.

As long as the signal that reaches the contactor matches what the contactor needs, then you are free to do that in whatever way you want. 120vac --> transformer --> 12vac --> contactor coil or 120vac --> wall-wort --> 12vdc --> contactor coil or whatever

You can buy flat sheets of HDPE from usplastics.com in various thicknesses if you want to avoid wood. http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=23869&catid=705 The reason I bring it up is that some panel mount components won't work if your panel is too thick. For example, the threaded...

Yup. No problem there. This is even considered kosher under the NEC "feeder tap" rule. It's ok to have an undersized wire as long as that wire is short enough, doesn't leave the enclosure, and connects to an appropriately sized over current device.

^^^ This.

I think you might be running a risk here. I use those same modular din rail distribution modules in my system, but you are absolutely supposed to use a jumper to bridge adacent modules on the rail. Adjacent ones do make a little bit of contact, but that is incidental and not indended to be the...

Gotcha.... SO, you have locking plugs. That's good. You just need some short lengths of extension cord with "normal" (straight blade) female ends on them then. Basically making your own versions of something like this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006F66HDC/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Normally, just cost. There are little bricks called something like "power distribution blocks" or something that are exactly what you describe. They are a block of (aluminum?) with several screw-down terminals on them. They typically cost a lot more than the terminal strips, and can only be...

Even if it's not 1/2", I'm sure a solution can be cobbled together to make it work. It does look like a good deal. I would personally be more curious about whether "Food-grade: Yes" means the same thing in China as it does in the US. I might pick one up, just to mess with it.

I'm might be confused, but if I understand this correctly... You have two 12v DC pumps with bare wire leads on them. You have two receptacles on your control panel than you want to use for the pumps. The receptacles are locking style. I am going to assume NEMA L5-15, like this: 120VAC...

OK, motor works, but I did smoke it again in the process. Like I said before: I am not in my element with motors. Seems I have to energize the run winding and then just give it a very brief momentary tap on the forward or reverse wires to get it started. After that, forward and reverse leads...

I used a surplus lab table that my employer was getting rid of for my brew stand. It's deeper than a kettlle, but not by much. I do have space on the table and almost always have something or other sitting there; refractometer, spoon, sanitizer spray bottle, pint of beer, etc. Not a ton of...

No. 2000W / 120V = 16.7Amps