Recent content by tjash

I'm in Cumberland, so Portland is easy enough. Gritty's in Freeport would work well too, and might be more convenient for folks north and east. Wife has some contacts with some Portland breweries; will investigate whether they're homebrewer-friendly. I'd prefer a get-together or two at some...

Moved to ME 1 year ago this week. Just now getting around to unpacking the brew gear and am looking forward to getting back into it. Would be interested in a local club or meet-up to get to know some like minded brewers. Any plans in the works?

Mods: end thread here. (Isn't three years of butthurt over yeast enough?) Seriously tho, thanks to Bob, Denny, and all the other contributors to this thread over the years. I stumbled over it the other day when trying to decide how best to handle a cake of WL013 I'm growing under a hopefully...

Yeah, I'm breathing life into an already zombiefied thread, but the title caught my eye when it popped up in the similar threads box on something else I was reading. Second little one due to arrive in a few weeks, so it was great to read through some other folks' experiences and approaches to...

Should be okay as long as you have a flame shield to block direct flame on the fitting. I use a welded on ferrule and have gas fired it once or twice with a blank tc flange in place with no damage to the gasket.

Thanks for clearing that up for me.

Ideally, yes - I'd want a barbed fitting. But the place I'm ordering from doesn't have a 1/4" mfl to 3/8" barb adapter, and I'd rather not pay double shipping. They do have a 1/4" mfl to 1/4" mpt, so I was curious what size tubing would fit over 1/4" mpt threads. This is just for a draft...

Quick question - what size tubing will fit over 1/4" MPT threads? (I tried searching, but couldn't find a readily available answer)

Don't have the link, but if you search the forums for "igloo fermentation" a bunch of threads will pop up. Nothing fancy - most folks either just cut a hole in the lid to fit the neck, or remove the lid entirely and build a replacement out of sheets of foam board. I plan to use 1L bottles of...

Found this on Amazon and thought others might like to grab one before they run out. I plan on using it as mini ferm chamber a la Yooper, but it would probably make a heckuva mash tun too. Currently $38.40, with 17 left. http://www.amazon.com/Igloo-Cube-Maxcold-Roller-70-Quart/dp/B000F6UJ5K

So you can piggyback your wiring. I used a second connector on the hot side of mine to jump to other components without having to run additional lines from a terminal block.

So, there's no real difference between the 120v and 240v versions sold by Auber, other than the size of the resistor? Cool, thanks. Never tried my hand at soldering... unless I can find a way to crimp/heatshrink another resistor in series, it might be cheaper for me to just buy the 240v lamp.

Ah. Hadn't considered putting in a resistor. Link to the light is in the first post.

Thanks for the input. I'll see if I can post a bigger version of my wiring for anyone else interested in taking a look. Unfortunately, it's a 120V LED. Not sure if it will function if I put 240V across it (or fry). Any way to wire a 120V indicator into the circuit that only lights up...

Finally got around to testing my build last night [pics HERE, more to come] and ran into 2 problems. First, the alarm didn't work. I think I figured that out; no power supplied to terminal 13 on the PID. I corrected that, but haven't tested it yet. Second, I put in an indicator LED with...