Recent content by ssabin

For what it's worth, I just did some research on this myself. I chose the SQ-14 and used it to brew a couple times already. My last brew was a 10-gallon extract batch (full boil) using a 26 gallon pot in 15 degree weather. It worked fine and I'm happy with my burner purchase.

Just ordered one of these myself yesterday!

Not saying that you won't be happy with the turkey fryer, but I wish I had gone straight to my large stainless kettle with drain valve and avoided the temporary purchase.

The only thing about extending thye boil is that you need to decide to do that before you reach the end of your planned 60 minute boil! If you know accurately the evaporation rate of your rig and want to extend your boil appropriately, that should work. Reducing your sparge water volume...

Lead free solder is the stuff you want - it can't leach lead! Seriously though, that's what many folks do.

I like Visio for schematics, although I usually find that I prefer my own template for certain sysmbols (relays, diodes, etc), although you could say that the included symbols are adequate. I think Visio has a free 90-day trial period, so you can try it out and see if it works for you. It's...

Had my wife stop by the nearest Target which showed "Limited Availability", and she came home with one for less than $10! The thing sure does look thin though, but I figure I'll try to see how it holds heat without any mods first. I've only brewed extract with grains, but I've been getting...

I'm in the same boat as the OP. I think Morebeer and Jaybird both have SS 26 gal pots with valves (maybe the same exact one) already installed with the nice bottom. Less than $300 shipped. It's a bit bigger than most of us will need for even 10 gal batches, but they don't have an 80 qt...

If the pump is truly isolated from everything anyone would ever touch, then techincally, it doesn't matter which wire gets switched. However, it is much safer (and the only way this could be up to code) to switch the hot wire with the neutral tied to house neutral at all times. If you switch...

I also add my LME at flameout, stir, and then start cooling. I recall a post on HBT about something similar in the past, with someone quoting the FDA time and temps required for pastuerization. Something less than 10 seconds at 160-170 degrees is all that is required for pasteurization, if...

As far a extract goes, I don't think it actually needs any boil time. The FDA guidelines for pasteurization are 165 degrees for 3 seconds for acidic liquids. As long as you were successful at getting all of your extract into solution and the water was above say 170 degrees, you are safe. You...

Anybody compare these two kit beers? Debating which one, and I've tried searching to get as much feedback as possible. Haven't heard anything bad about either, but wondering if anyone had brewed both and what your impressions were. Thanks!

Thanks, Wallygator. I just started reading Designing Great Beers by Ray Daniels and starting to accept the fact that all extract recipes will be darker beers. Maybe I just need fresher stuff. At any rate, I will probably someday try a partial mash, then get a cool mash tun setup, but I'd...

What brand of LME did you use and where did you purchase it? That's a nice light color for using all LME and adding it all at the beginning. Methinks I should give this LME a try or two.

I don't think there's much helpful to say. I guess I wouldn't rule out infection if you use a plastic fermenter until you brew a batch that turns out good. Other than that, I don't know how to help. How was the aroma? Maybe it's possible that these will mellow out????