Recent content by rjschroed

I use this for my water chemistry http://www.brewersfriend.com/mash-chemistry-and-brewing-water-calculator/ It too agrees that your mash wasn't acidic enough, it also notices you are a little light on Ca and SO4. All of these problems can be fixed with salt additions. I don't know how much it...

I think you might be down the right path but looking at the wrong solution. Certainly sparging may help efficiency but it isn't because he is mashing with too much water. Perhaps that volume of water is contributing to a poor mash pH and that is contributing to poor mash efficiencies. With...

I like my bag also! :ban: seriously, a bunch of good advice was given here. Beersmith handles BIAB pretty well in my opinion. I crush pretty normal myself (a touch finer than typical LHBS which I think we can all agree is more appropriate), don't dunk sparge or squeeze too hard, full volume...

As long as it's not infected or anything else. Call it a lesson and drink it up.

I just wanted to point out that the two are more similar than what some people might think. I figured that I would have to give supporting evidence to that instead of just making a statement. I think we both agree on that.

Might want to try to back the pressure down to 8 or 9 PSI first. At 35 degrees this will get you close to typical carbonation levels AND help the beer serve better on your shortish line. If that doesn't work, look into longer 3/16" line.

Here is one of the 2 APA recipes from the book: As with all the Brewing Classic Styles recipes, 70% efficiency, Rager for IBUs, 5 gallons finished beer. Malts 11.3lbs American 2-row .75lbs Munich .75lbs Victory .5lbs Wheat malt Hops 60 min .66oz Horizon 13%AA (34.2IBU) 10 min .5oz...

:off: I'm sure your recipe turns out great beer but I just want to let you know, for the record, there very little to no color difference between white wheat and red wheat. For example: http://www.brewingwithbriess.com/Products/Wheat.htm These are only the briess products but, as you can see...

My suggestion would be to go ahead and boil for 90 min. but add your bittering charge at 60 min. and you might be a bit heavy handed on that bittering charge. You might as well forget adding .25 oz of centennial at 60 min. . . that won't make a noticeable difference in this beer. Move it into...

Just a thought and it might be too late but with 04 being a high flocculating strain and the cooler temperature you might not have completed fermentation but instead stopped it. warm it up to the mid 60s (the bulk of the fermentation is done, it shouldn't effect flavor much, if at all), swirl it...

I'm not exactly sure what you mean by "purging it, letting it sit for 24 hours." My routine goes like this: Starting with a clean and sanitized keg, purge with Co2, fill with beer, close lid, hook up Co2, purge out the headspace using pressure relief valve, hook up to Co2 at 30ish PSI, leave...

oh yeah. Once you get the hang of kegging down, you'll never go back to bottling.

If kegging your beer is something your seriously interested in and can afford to do it, I'd just buy the keggerator. The trouble with trying to carbonate beer at room temperature goes like this; The warmer your beer, the more CO2 pressure is required to achieve your target volume in the beer...

I think both of those totaling 14% have the potential to come out sweet. I would reduce them equally. Yes, make up for it in 2-row. Don't worry, you'll have body and head. I don't care for cascade hops as a bittering addition personally. I'm not sure how anyone else feels about them but I've...