Recent content by noremorse1

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  1. noremorse1

    Quick wiring question simple E-Kettle

    For a cheap control with a twist style heat control knob, you can do this: Purchase a two pole, illuminated, 30 amp, on off switch ~$6 Purchase a 40 amp, solid state relay with heat sink ~$18 Purchase this PWM board. Replace C1 with a 2.2uF capacitor. $9.00 Find an old, 12v DC charger from...
  2. noremorse1

    For all you guys brewing in the basement

    Running a dehumidifier (they are standard items here in Wisconsin) while you brew and for a few hours afterwards might be a good idea. That will quickly extract any of that moisture out of your basement. If you can, brew closest to a window and open it. Place a fan in that window. I would also...
  3. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    Well... they sell the turnkey controllers for 1,450 and 1,600. You could easily build the full product for $500-600 assuming you already have the kettles and pumps.
  4. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    I would upgrade the contactors. I wouldn't upgrade the heat sink. I brew in my basement and it stays very cool. The ones provided are sufficient. You could always go with the one provided and, if you notice them getting excessively hot, buy used ones on ebay for a fraction of the price.
  5. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    These are great too. Not a bad price either. You would probably save a max of $5 - $10 sourcing yourself.
  6. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    Go with a 40amp SSR. It will run a lot cooler than a 30amp. I dont think you would need to go with 50.
  7. noremorse1

    1" aluminum NPTF Weld-In Flange?

    If you don't plan on keeping it, go weld-less. The kit from brewhardware.com is $30.
  8. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    PJ, do you have a similar diagram to this replacing the boil PID with a PWM?
  9. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    If I was you, I would find the neighbor and lots of "practical jokes" would ensue.
  10. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    GFCI that receptacle. :D
  11. noremorse1

    Forced to Switch to Electric. Need Help!

    When you have them put in the 220 outlet, make sure it is tied to a double pole, 50 amp, gfci breaker. You could go with 30, but you said you need to power two 5500 watt elements at the same time. If you want to see a build much like what you are going for, check out this thread...
  12. noremorse1

    Reviews on Millar's Barley Mill?

    Right on. I have never had one... but used one. Another great product.
  13. noremorse1

    Reviews on Millar's Barley Mill?

    You guys are going over the top with this CSI analysis into the seller/manufacturer. When is the last time you were able to ring a manufacturer of your equipment and have a call returned within 30 minutes from the owner? The only level of service I have had like that was from Austin Hombrew and...
  14. noremorse1

    Solid strut single tier build

    Wrapping the strut that is exposed to heat/flame in a few layers of tinfoil each brew should extend the life of your stand. Just an idea.
  15. noremorse1

    Solid strut single tier build

    I am considering doing a build like this and not really concerned about using galvanized as this will be an electric build. HOWEVER... I would only be concerned about the part that is in contact with heat/flame if I were using gas. That would be the top portion of the rig. If you were to replace...
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