To be fair the $1,000 price tag includes everything. The silicone hoses, SS ball lock valves, Sight glasses, Volt and Amp Meters, the Keg, temp probes, Auber PID controller timer & switches, Everything…
I am currently 90% of the way to having a Kal / Aubiecat inspired electric BIAB setup and I find this
http://www.kitchenkrafts.com/electric-waterbath-canner-with-spigot/p/FP0857/
Granted my setup is bigger (read more expensive) at 15 gallons but why wouldnt this work for someone wanting...
Hellbentbrewco,
I am having the same trouble, tastes great just a little flat. It has been at 36 degrees and 12 PSI for 4 weeks yesterday. This is my first attempt at force carb and my only other beer in still in seconday so I have nothing to compare it to.
I was setting here looking at my parts and had that same thought. I think I may go with the hospital grade single outlet facing down. I don’t think there will be enough strain on the wire to make it come loose. I am using your post as a play book and ordering all my supplies to follow...
aubiecat,
did you cut the electrical plug off of the pump and rewire it with the 15 amp twist lock? I see a regular 110V single outlet in the picture of all the parts on the table.
To elaborate a little more on what jaytizzle is saying…
Any cooling you get from the fridge will be more than offset by the heat dissipated from the back of the mini fridge. You will end up with a net heat increase.
I agree with stratslinger. It sounds like you need to correct for temperature. I remember taking my pre-boil reading on my first batch and being very upset with the result. I was measuring at 170 degrees and at that time I had no Idea that temp made such a difference. After it cooled to 68...