Recent content by motosapiens

Got a keg fridge last winter and have been happily kegging my beers now, using inexpensive garden-variety taps. The taps seem to occasionally get slightly obstructed by some kind of gross rubbery stuff that dries or grows in them, and every now and then will squirt out into my beer (like once...

yes. as you have probably noticed, the wort keeps getting lighter and thinner, so you won't be missing much.

i would recommend putting half the dry hops in after 48 hours if you are pitching a nice healthy yeast, then wait another 5 days for the other half. This in my experience is part of what leads to haze (and delicious juicy flavors which are 198349813 more important than haze). I would also...

I call mine 'juicy pale ale'. It's become my favorite style, but..... like most other styles, I find that 95% of commercial examples are not nearly as good as my own. The last few years I've started to lose interest in visiting breweries because the beer is so 'meh'.

i have used both. pellet hops are a little more efficient, and also a little less hassle when racking. whole hops seem to me to result in a very slightly clearer beer. basically my strategy is to use pellets unless that year's pellets haven't been processed and made available for sale yet. They...

That is some pretty bizarre thinking imho. I've been brewing and drinking IPA's for a long long time, and from my first taste of a weldwerks juicy bits, it was pretty clear that it is a completely different animal. I spend time in bend every year visiting breweries, and as of last spring, have...

Intel or artillery? or something else. I was in Augsburg from 85-91. I think freshness is likely the key to the OP's question. We traveled to prague a couple times, and the difference between czech exports and german pilsners vs the real deal in the czech republic was pretty dramatic. I've...

that's ok with me, since my beer tastes better to me and my frirends than most commercial beers. for the OP, i have gone both ways, but I'm starting to find I get better clarity and smoother flavor by leaving the beer another week before bottling even tho it's pretty well fermented out by 7-10...

I don't leave anything close to an ounce in bottles unless i'm really careless pouring the first glass of a 22-25oz bottle. the yeasts seem to settle pretty hard for me. I just keep pouring until i can see some sediment that is about to come out... then i stop. Usually like a teaspoon, sometimes...

meh, i'll just skip showering on brew day, and move to where the water is.

that makes sense. i don't know if cold-crashing causes problems, since I only do cold 'fender-benders' to about 50-54 degrees, just to encourage more hop material to drop. i'll probably experiment with even less crashing and see if i can still avoid clogging up my old-school manual siphon rig.

I'm not sure if this oxidation thing is a thing or not. My previous versions haven't exhibited any darkening, but my double with 6 oz of dry hops (2 oz of that being whole hops) may be. I better go open one and check. I think my strategy is going to just be to drink them up hella fast. So far...

It came across *almost* cloying for me. I think in general, I would consider backing slightly off the crystal malts if I had developed a recipe for a different yeast. OTOH, the stout I just did with 1318, would have benefitted from MORE crystal, even tho last years version with 1450 probably...

that's been my experience, but I only made 1 batch with the 1450 since I was using it for yooper stout. Other than that and the 1318, I have only tried WLP008 (cuz i had some), and wlp023 burton yeast. 1450 seems to really accentuate the malt and caramel, and not bring out as much juiciness...

i tried it last year. it was drinkable, but not nearly as fruity as 1318, and dropped pretty clear pretty quick.