Recent content by Jif

Holy cow. It went for $17. Just know that you've inspired me, and I just had my "best offer" accepted on an eye wash. I'm intending on building a "bright tank" to dry hop my IPAs in. Ferment in a sankey, pressure transfer to a 10 gallon cornelius with a filter setup like this...

Looking forward to updates, costs, and pictures. Very interested, especially if a thirteen gallon one would fit in my fridge.

I haven't seen Foreign Extra Stout around in my market in eons. It got a big push when Guinness made it available in the U.S., but it went away quickly. I always found it too sweet. I greatly prefer the "regular" extra stout.

I would be interested in a 13 gallon with TC fittings.

Stick with bourbon.

Bought a Blichmann recently. Never looking back. Did heavy research prior to purchasing and it really seems like it's worth the money, even over burners that look comparatively similar, i.e. banjo burners.

Interesting. I have it on good authority that at least one of the prominent purveyors of NE IPA dry hops under pressure, so I'm thinking if I pull at four to five days into primary into a pressurized dry hop keg, that I should have good results.

Bear with me, I'm still parsing through this epic thread. I've been focusing lately on heavily dry-hopped Northeast Style IPAs. My last batch had around 5 ounces of hops per five gallon batch. I just got ahold of a sanke keg, as I brew ten gallon batches and would like to streamline this...

Because I'm a dummy, I'm new to all of this water business, and I'm about to order calcium chloride/sulfate instead. Still working my way through Palmer's water book, and figuring things out as I go along. Would I be correct that I'd want both calcium chloride and calcium sulfate on hand, so...

Thanks for the feedback, all. This is what I've been doing. I'm building my water additions in Bru'n Water, starting by calculating acid additions to get mash pH in recommended ranges, and then calculating other additions as needed to best match Bru'n Water's profile for the style I'm...

I (very) recently started paying attention to my water, and my two most recent brews have resulted in my adding chalk. I've got a scale that reads out to hundredths, but my issue is whatever vessel I place on the scale and tare out to measure additions seems to hold onto the chalk I'm trying to...

I appreciate everyone chiming in here. I ordered a fun pile of things on the internet to get cracking after this. My intent at this point is to stick basically to "do what Bru'n Water tells you to do," and deal with the high pH of my mash water and the high alkalinity of my mash water through...

Arg! Foiled again! I knew I remembered from looking at my report that the cation/anion ratio was close. Is this what you mean when you say it's a balanced water profile?

My report is attached. It was done last summer. I meant to start getting my head wrapped around water chemistry last summer, but time makes fools of us all. Finally getting around to digging my teeth into it now. Would you suggest getting my water tested again?

Phew! Still learning! Are my sulfates high enough that I need to plan on diluting down mineralization contents for doing lighter beers? And should I plan on adding acid to lower pH just for mash water, or sparge water as well? My understanding was that the real pH concern was for mash...