Recent content by epcgordy

The last one I did did the same thing. I just used a hammer & chisel to tap the split as tight as I could get it to the coupling. Then I used a little plumber's putty to seal around the dimple, and the solder did the rest. The putty got a little smokey as I was soldering, but it stayed in place...

I found the busbars (terminal strips) at home depot. You can find them at McMaster and other online sources as well.

PM me your email address, and I'll send the full size file. :mug:

Here is the wiring diagram I used. It's based on one of PJ's diagrams, and modified to suit my preferences. I don't have a parts list, but used commonly available parts. The timer and PID are from Auber, the relays, switches, etc. are items I found on Ebay.

That part of the setup was "borrowed" directly from Kal, the parts are listed on his website, theelectricbrewery.com. I originally used the stock rubber gasket inside the box, between the hex of the element and the back of the box. Since then, I've re-thought that with the grounding in mind, and...

My element didn't thread into the half coupling more than about one full turn, so I found a 1" NPS tap on Ebay. I used that to "chase" the threads, and open them up a little so the element would thread into it farther. Turns out that with the thickness of the O-ring and washer, and the back...

Got a few pix last night. The first one shows the type of CPVC pipe to male pipe thread adapter that I pressed into the tapered stainless fitting. Then, I filled around it with JB Weld from the large end, and topped it off with a couple of stainless washers epoxied in. The next one shows the...

I get a shot or two posted in the next day or two.

I used a Greenlee punch, 1 1/4 in hole. It went through the Bayou Classic like butter. On a keggle, 1 1/4 might be a tad on the small side. Seemed like the dimple was pretty deep, had to move a pretty large area of the kettle wall. I'd recommend testing on piece of scrap if you can something. I...

SmokingDog, Yeah, I dimpled from the outside in. Mainly just because I preferred to do the soldering on the outside, where I could see what what the solder was doing as I was going. One cool thing I discovered in making the tool was a way to keep the tapered piece straight on the bolt. I...

iijakii, I don't get to DFW too often, but if if do head that way, I'll look you up!

Ajgeo, I made the tool described in the Soldering Stainless Steel thread. I used the same bolr/nut set-up, and just changed the tapered fitting and the larger receiver.

Right, 1" half coupling, dimpled and soldered. I used a Bayou Classic 62qt. kettle, and making the dimple was a piece of cake. Might be a little more challenging on a keggle, though. What are you planing to use?

So, I took some pictures when I got home last night. The second picture shows how the OD of the O-ring is slightly smaller than the ID of the stainless washer. When compressed between the box and kettle, the washer prevents the O-ring from deforming.

Thats it! I built my element housing per the instructions here: http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements (Thanks Kal!) Because one of my goals was to get away from the leaks I experienced with the weldless fittings on my old kettle, I decided to attach the box to the kettle with the...