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The last one I did did the same thing. I just used a hammer & chisel to tap the split as tight as I could get it to the coupling. Then I used a little plumber's putty to seal around the dimple, and the solder did the rest. The putty got a little smokey as I was soldering, but it stayed in place...

I found the busbars (terminal strips) at home depot. You can find them at McMaster and other online sources as well.

PM me your email address, and I'll send the full size file. :mug:

Here is the wiring diagram I used. It's based on one of PJ's diagrams, and modified to suit my preferences. I don't have a parts list, but used commonly available parts. The timer and PID are from Auber, the relays, switches, etc. are items I found on Ebay.

That part of the setup was "borrowed" directly from Kal, the parts are listed on his website, theelectricbrewery.com. I originally used the stock rubber gasket inside the box, between the hex of the element and the back of the box. Since then, I've re-thought that with the grounding in mind, and...

My element didn't thread into the half coupling more than about one full turn, so I found a 1" NPS tap on Ebay. I used that to "chase" the threads, and open them up a little so the element would thread into it farther. Turns out that with the thickness of the O-ring and washer, and the back...

Got a few pix last night. The first one shows the type of CPVC pipe to male pipe thread adapter that I pressed into the tapered stainless fitting. Then, I filled around it with JB Weld from the large end, and topped it off with a couple of stainless washers epoxied in. The next one shows the...

I get a shot or two posted in the next day or two.

I used a Greenlee punch, 1 1/4 in hole. It went through the Bayou Classic like butter. On a keggle, 1 1/4 might be a tad on the small side. Seemed like the dimple was pretty deep, had to move a pretty large area of the kettle wall. I'd recommend testing on piece of scrap if you can something. I...

SmokingDog, Yeah, I dimpled from the outside in. Mainly just because I preferred to do the soldering on the outside, where I could see what what the solder was doing as I was going. One cool thing I discovered in making the tool was a way to keep the tapered piece straight on the bolt. I...

iijakii, I don't get to DFW too often, but if if do head that way, I'll look you up!

Ajgeo, I made the tool described in the Soldering Stainless Steel thread. I used the same bolr/nut set-up, and just changed the tapered fitting and the larger receiver.

Right, 1" half coupling, dimpled and soldered. I used a Bayou Classic 62qt. kettle, and making the dimple was a piece of cake. Might be a little more challenging on a keggle, though. What are you planing to use?

So, I took some pictures when I got home last night. The second picture shows how the OD of the O-ring is slightly smaller than the ID of the stainless washer. When compressed between the box and kettle, the washer prevents the O-ring from deforming.

Thats it! I built my element housing per the instructions here: http://theelectricbrewery.com/heating-elements (Thanks Kal!) Because one of my goals was to get away from the leaks I experienced with the weldless fittings on my old kettle, I decided to attach the box to the kettle with the...

That's not quite true - while a flat gasket or washer can seal quite well on the two flat surfaces, it can't seal against the threads on the element. Liquid can follow the threads right past the gasket, all the way to the where the threads end on the element base - which winds up being inside...

Because liquid can follow the threads on the base of the element past the O-ring on the outside, there needs to be a gasket or washer (I used the black one that comes with the element) under the base of the element, inside the box. That, and the gasket or O-ring between the box and the coupling...

There is also the issue of grounding everything. The original black rubber washer alone would prevent the weatherproof box from making solid contact with the coupling or nut. With the washer and O-ring, the O-ring makes a reliable seal, and the washer does double duty - preventing the O-ring...

No leakage into the box - that's key! Rather than the standard gasket that comes with the element, I used a silicone O-ring, which is protected from over tightening by a slighly larger stainless steel washer. When the element is tightened it squeezes the O-ring until the washer contacts the half...

I was a little worried that my element wouldn't screw in far enough, so I bought a "cheap" NPS tap off Ebay. I was able to run it into the threads on the half coupling far enough to seat the element firmly. After final assembly, I realized that the thickness of the silicone O-ring and stainless...