Recent content by ElDuderino

brewinabag.weebly.com is now bagbrewer.com

Thanks for plugging my bags, tknice! I just wanted to point out that brewinabag.weebly.com now points to a site about vacuums :drunk: If you are interested in a bag, you can go to my new web site, which is bagbrewer.com

brewinabag.weebly.com points to a vacuum site now :drunk: If you are interested in a bag, you can see my updated site by going to bagbrewer.com

brewinabag.weebly.com is no more (and links to a site about vacuums) The new name is bagbrewer.com for those interested in finding a bag

Has anyone tried making something to slide over the probe while doing brew in a bag that is more rounded on the end and less likely to get caught up in the bag? I've thought of using 1/2 or 3/4 inch copper to make a 'sleeve'. Two end caps and a long enough piece of tube to cover the probe and...

For those who are interested in a strong, well built bag sewn to the dimensions of their own kettle, please have a look at my web site: bagbrewer.com I have made bags for kettles of all sizes, from small stove top pots to a bag I sewed yesterday to fit the 55 gallon boilermaker. I know a lot...

I love wyeast 1968 for quick beers. It drops amazingly bright in less than a week. It has a nice flavor. You should try your Black IPA. I just brewed a 1.056 ESB and it was crystal clear in six days. I left it in the fermenter a week longer because of lack of time to keg, but fg came out at...

I should have looked at the recipe... 1.098 is a big beer and I don't think getting a lower efficiency should worry you too much. One thing you could try when doing such a big beer is to do a dunk sparge, where you pull a couple gallons of your mash water and heat it so that when you are done...

I BIAB and usually get 80% efficiency. I grind my grain at .027" on my mill and use an automotive feeler gauge to set the gap. If you are milling at your homebrew shop, they probably won't let you re-set the roller gap, so you can run it through twice if you want. I dont stir much during...

I would wash it by either running it through with non fragrant soap (no stuff with zippers) and then boil some water, turn off the burner, add a drop or so of dish soap and let it soak and stir with something. Then rinse it out really well and let it dry. If you are going to sew it, I would do...

You could also mash in one pot and have the second pot heated to mash out temperature, maybe 175F to account for the cooling effect of the grain. When you are done with your mash, heat the mash vessel up to 175, (lift the bag first so it does not scorch) and then lower it, stir gently for a...

You will be fine using flaked wheat instead of raw and it will be easier to mash. Even though they are both wheat, flaked and raw behave differently and contribute different amounts of protein to the beer. The raw wheat really needs to be mashed and boiled to break up its cell walls to expose...

I would think it would be impractical, may be impossible, to lift several tons of wet grain out of a kettle. It works great making five to ten gallons of beer in my back yard, though:mug:

Try to find a bag that fits your kettle so that the grain can come in contact with all the brewing liquor. Mash for 75 minutes. I use tastybrew.com 's calculator to figure out my strike water temps. After mashing, lift the bag off the bottom and raise the temperature of the wort to 175...

On canning and safety: When I was looking into chilling in the cube, I read a bunch of posts on the Australian forum aussiehomebrewer.com and a bunch of those guys are making wort ahead of time, pouring the hot wort into plastic containers (the hot wort supposedly kills spoilage organisms) and...