Recent content by DownRightAft

If I came off as argumentative, it wasn't intentional. I am not interested in compromising the safety of my build, that is why I was asking the question, and not just assuming. I am using GFCI's, so I am not relying on the breaker to cut the power. I figured since it only took a few mili-amps...

I meant I was going to use heavy duty heat shrink on the end of the element to make a waterproof seal on the wired end. I considered grounding the kettle handles, but how is that any better than grounding the stainless table the kettles are sitting on? It would be less stuff, less wires.

I am building a small electric brewery, using a stainless table, and stainless kettles. I am planning on running a ground wire to the element, and I want to enclose the wires in waterproof rubber shrink wrap. I am using a double O-Ring setup to mount the element to my kettle. My question...

I guess I was reading the ratings correctly. Thanks, for the info. I am just surprised that a cheesy little toggle switch can handle higher amperage than a 10 dollar 22mm switch. I will use the relay as well.

I find it hard to believe the contactor on this switch is only rated for 6.5 amps. I could be wrong though. Where could I find one rated for 120V 20A?

I am looking for a SPST 22MM N/O SELECTOR SWITCH. I do not understand the rating system used in these switches. I want one that will be able to handle 120v 20A. I see the ratings for these, and the appear much lower than I require. But small 2 dollar toggle switches have the correct rating...

Thanks PJ!

I have been planning my 120V build for a while, and would appreciate some help in the wiring diagram. I have searched the forum, but haven't been able to find a diagram that appeared to fit. I am building a small brewery, using a single 2352 PID, single 1500w 120v element, and a single 809...

I am building a single tier, 2 vessel electric brewery. I am using an Auber 2352, and an RTD temp probes. I would like to use two probes, 1 in the HLT/BK, and another in the MLT. I would only be using 1 probe at a time. I would like to use 1 PID. Is there a switch available that I could use...

Thanks for the quick reply. I will check the wire leaving the breaker. By the way, what would define a "constant" load? Is it a time frame, or a certain type of device. I just figured during an hour long boil we would probably be considered "constant" Your 2P-twenty rig was an inspiration...

I am building a new E-rig, thanks to all the threads on this forum. I have been reading through lot's of the threads, but I have a question for the more savvy electric brewers on the forum. I am renting an older home, built in the 80's I believe. I am not going to modify any existing...

Anyone using one of these: EBC II with Infinite Power Control w/ 4-wire plug - High Gravity I am looking into building an E-HERM. I am not comfortable doing all my own wiring, and this looks like exactly what I am looking for. I just haven't seen anyone using one and would like to hear...

I used whirlfloc and pellet hops for the first time, and when I poured my wort into my funnel strainer it would clog right away and I was unable to get all my wort out. Was the really fine sludge due to the pellet hops, or the whirlfloc? Also, if I use whirfloc, does it really only work if you...

3 Gallon Boil, 5 Gallon Batch 1.00 lb Pale Malt (6 row) US 2.00 lb Light Dry Extract 1.00 lb Wheat Dry Extract 2.00 lb Wheat, Flaked 0.50 lb Oats, Flaked 1.50 oz Goldings, East Kent (60 min) 0.75 oz Coriander Seed (Boil 10.0 min) 0.75 oz Orange Peel, Bitter (Boil 10.0 min)...

Here is the recipe I got from Beirmuncher on another thread, I am going to make a wit beer, partial extract: 3.00 lb Extra Light Dry Extract (3.0 SRM) 1.00 lb Wheat Dry Extract (8.0 SRM) 2.00 lb Wheat, Flaked (1.6 SRM) 1.49 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00%] (60 min) 0.75 oz Coriander Seed...