Did you take an accurate mash pH reading?
I have accidently over acid my sparge water. Hitting 4.7 pH. And that added a twang that I did not like. Beer wasn’t ruined. But it wasn’t right.
I pH my raw water. Mash and sparge water to keep track of things.
As said. Looks like a co2 leak. But otherwise a solid fermentation.
Next time. Pitch lower. Lower temp that is. Pitch 2 degrees below normal temp. You want to ferment @ 58? Pitch @ 56.
I don’t trust BeerSmith for final gravity. For me it’s always higher then actual.
And it’s decoction calculation is horrible.
I pull 1 “scoop” per pound of grain. Not all scoops are full. I slowly add back the boiled decoction until I hit my next step. Sometimes leaving some decoction mash...
That’s what I would do. The difference with a dopplebock being that I’ll boil the decoction for 20-30 min.
Vs 5-10 min for a Pilsner.
Your FG should be a bit higher. 1018 ish. OG in the high 1070’s low 1080’s
100% dark Munich (Munich 2) is perfect for a dopplebock.
Do a long thick decoction. 30 min boil.
Resting the thick decoction @ 158 is just another efficiency boost. 2-4% extra imhop.
Have fun!
Get rid of the Melanoiden Malt. The actual decoction takes its place.
This is my decoction mash schedule.
Mash in @ 1.5/quarts per # grain to hit a 142-144 target.
Rest 15 min @ 142-144
Pull thick decoction (think oatmeal with a little liquid)
I do one “scoop” per # grain (1 quart scoops)...
This ties into your other thread on mash pH.
To pull off a great no sparge brew, your mash pH needs to be on point.
You will need much more acid/salts with the higher water to grain ratio.
Not impossible. Just needs attention.
Suggestions:
Get new acid (it’s cheap)
Get both 10% and 88%
Personally I use 10% or acid malt in the mash as I usually need so little to get my mash ph in line.
I use 88% in the sparge water to get it to 5.5.
Brew again and see what happens. You are clearly an experienced brewer, so you...
Are you measuring the RO water pH or just assuming 6.8?
Measure to verify.
I like to calibrate immediately before measuring. And I always measure @ room temp. Even though I have an ATC pH meter.
Maybe switch to 10% phosphoric acid you will need more, but it’s much easier to measure 4ml then...
Sometimes yeast just lets you down.
Sounds like your process is good. Only thing I can think of is maybe heat shock? The new wort was too hot compared to the chilled yeast cake? And you killed it?
But most likely not.
Did you cold crash the first starter before decanting?
If not, you might have thrown out all the healthiest yeast that was still in suspension of the primary starter.
I always cold crash my step starters. I do them a lot as I brew 11 gallon lagers!
With my homebrew club I’ve brewed with them all at this point.
I have a stainless false bottom. Purchased/built years ago befor BIAB was so popular.
That said. If I was building something today. I would buy a grain bag, but use it in a traditional fly or batch sparge application.
All of my experience in this area have nothing to to with beer or home brewing but with commercial and industrial HVAC.
I am an air & hydronic systems balancer by trade. It’s my job to set the air and water flows to their correct numbers in order to achieve the engineers design. I live in...