Thanks for the input I love this forum. I'm going to keep it simple with no changes. I also noticed he didn't have a pump.. I wonder if he powers the element during the mash?
Just finished my first brew on my electric keggle. Running 2 1500w elements flat out without a controller and it worked great. I BIAB so once my temps were good unplugged them and then back in for the boil. Worked great for a 5 gallon batch. About 35mins from mash to boil.
Wish I had done this...
32 and brew 5gal every couple. months. Try to do 10gal when possible. My pipeline is usually dry before I brew again and that's fine with me. Two young kids doesn't help
I use one because it was cheap, and it works. They are heavy and awkward and there's no way you're tipping it into a fermentor.
If I wasn't so cheap I'd buy a new pot.
The grips were part of an element with a triclamp fitting
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B077TPD4L7/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)
The grip is good down to 12.5mm but my cord is closer to 9.5mm. I would return if it was just the cord grip that didn't work for me.
My cord grip is slightly too big for my 14awg wire. Thinking of wrapping some of the outer insulation that ill be stripping off my sjoow cable and securing it with electric tape to make the diameter of my wire a little bigger.
Thoughts?
In confused on how you mount the switch in the box (forgive my ignorance)
do I cut a hole for just the little switch.. do I also need a face plate like you see on walls? Having a hard time seeing one during the build to know what to expect. I'm a visual learner.
would it be different running on 120v as opposed to 240v in terms of wear and tear? I don't brew all that often I'm just looking for a safe and economical way to turn them on and off.
It needs to be portable so I liked the idea of the simple toggle switch. Plug in my GFCI plug with the switch...