Recent content by Bear419

Finished at at last: my mobile, recirculating, 2 vessel, electric, apartment friendly brew rig.

I had some extra masonite board from another project. and mounted it to the bottom of the box with some bolts and rubber washers. One tip. be very mindful of where you drill the holes for your switches. If you place a hole too close to one of the structural ridges on the underside of the...

On the open side of the J-box (facing keg) there is a metal face plate and water proof gasket. I used a step bit to put a hole in the face plate just large enough for the elements threads to fit through but not the rest of the element base. I wired the element up and attached the face plate to...

Just about done with this project. Here are some pics of it coming together. I will have to write up a lessons learned post once I have the plumbing and stand in place. Big Thanks to the HBT community. You guys were an invaluable resource. :mug:

Great idea. Thanks

Is that because of the wooden stand and plastic MLT? I played with the idea of the BK and MLT being in the stacked position for storage, and having the BK tier pullout for actual brewing, Just couldn't figure out how to do it elegantly (i.e. very limited wood working skills).

1. I have an IC I'll stick in the 10 minutes of boil 2. I have a pretty long cord for control panel so I will probably have it sitting on counter several feet away Good call on the height, I hadn't really thought about the pump failing and being stuck.

Kaiser has a nice write up on it. https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f36/cold-water-sparge-110856/ That's a good point on the condensation falling back into the BK. I was going to see if I could find a food safe sealant, but an additional hinge sounds simpler.

Sketchup of my of a stand for my two vessel electric brewery. No need for HLT since I will either mash at full volume or cold water sparge. One of the top 2x4s has a latch and hinge so I can swing it out of the way for better access to the BK. Thoughts? EDIT: The MLT is removed prior to boil

+1 for switching to low density element. I've seen people add near 90 degree bends to some elements so you might be able to make it fit your current equipment.

It was a bad breaker. I left the wiring as is and swapped out breakers and it works as intended. From my meter readings there seems like there was an internal short in the breaker.

With the breaker unwired and in the off position to took an ohm reading of the two hot outputs and got a resistance reading less than infinte. That doesn't make sense to me. Is this a sign of a bad breaker? :confused:

Thanks. I will take care to clean up the wiring. As for the white wire going to the neutral bus. This is the wire that came pre-installed on the breaker. According to this P-J diagram I thought it needed to be attached to the neutral bus. Is this not the case?

Here is a pic. The green wire is actually the neutral coming from a 3 wire range outlet. I run a wire from the neutral bus to the ground bus, and also have the neutral wire from the breaker join the neutral bus. The breaker trips even when I don't have anything wired to the breaker outputs.

I have a simple eaton spa panel with a 240 50A GFCI breaker. As soon as I plug it in or flip the main breaker it trips. I followed one of P-J's spa panel diagrams and have it wired like this: I did check for shorts with my multi-meter, and there were no faults between the neutral and...