Recent content by Andrew5329

Squeeky nailed it as to why your getting bubbles, by opening it you agitated the beer, releasing CO2. I'd probably leave it longer in the bucket though, even though fermentation is done conditioning is still occurring and it'll taste better if you let it wait another week or two :)

That's your active fermentation right there, and the blowoff is normal if you filled your fermentation vessel too high, or if you pitched your yeast at too warm of a temperature (80*F+) As for fermentation time, let it stay in primary for at least 3 weeks (preferably a month) because while most...

Best solution IMO is to buy a turkey fryer, you get both a 36L stockpot + a propane burner to match, you can get them for about $40USD

The way I do my all-grains is to basically take between 1/3 and 1/2 of the water I'll be boiling, and use the remainder to sparge the grains, extracting most of the sugar (more water = more sugar extraction). I'm not super scientific about the precise amount of water that I use, but I will use...

Finish your beer! There's sober kids in India.

What yooper said, also depending on the temperature of the wort when you did your reading it can easily be skewed by as much at .05 compared to the 60*F standard. (hot liquids are less dense than cold liquids) Couple that with some heavier wort settling down and you probably have your answer.

Considering that yeast cells have a doubling time of 90 minutes in their active phase, provided they have enough to eat, starting only 90 minutes behind your double pitching friend isn't terribly significant, especially when most of us here habitually leave their beer in primary for close to a...

There are 3 situations where a normal packet of yeast won't do the job in a 5 gallon batch... 1) When you have poor sanitation, and you need your yeast culture to out-compete any bacteria/mold that may have gotten in. 2) When you have a beer with an abnormally high starting gravity like 1.07...

Well this was before you pitched your yeast right? If I were you I'd have just brought the wort back up to a boil to kill off any contamination, then depending on how much bathwater made it in boil it down to 5.5 gallons before chilling it again.

Well don't throw it out yet, I've had beer that tasted gross at the 2 or 3 week mark, but 6 months later tasted amazing. Time does amazing things.

As I said before the suggested fermentation date is rubbish, that's the company rushing you so that you to buy more kits. You dont need more yeast because even though your current beer is "fermented" there are still trillions of metabolically active cells in the beer cleaning out harsh aeromtic...

Do yourself a favor and buy a large grain bag for $4.50, It'll save you a lot of headaches in managing your grains as you mash/lauter it, as well as prevent any husks from getting into your wort.

Yes, you can still add it, but you still need to prepare that can of Malt-syrup as you would your normal wort (IE: boil it for an hour or w/e the recipe prescribed) then add that to your fermenter. Just make sure that you let the new wort cool to room temp before you add it, otherwise you'll...

DME can sometimes be a PITA if your stirring in a large quantity of it, but other than that there's no difference except for the concentration of malt (LME is 80%malt 20% water, compared to 100% dry malt so you can do the conversions for your recipes)

As billy said, Beersmith is an amazing tool that has the intricacies. The little "potential ABV" thing you most hydrometers is useless since almost no beer will ever get 100% conversion.