Recent content by amurphyz

In my setup, I have a pid reading the HLT, and a pid reading the MLT, both auber pid's with rtd sensors. My MLT is not insulated, just stainless keggles. To give you a quick example, I brewed last Saturday, it was about 80-85 deg f in my garage, and my target mash temp was 152 f, so I started...

The ones that I have are only rated for 12v dc so I k ow mine won't work without adding steps own transformers and 12v relays

ow, to order those pricey fittings. Bobby at brew hardware dot com, good prices, awesome service

That is exactly how I did it as well. It did take awhile, but the bank funds like it a lot more. I only had around 500 in mine, an that's with the auber pids and timer. Just be patient and look for good deals on eBay and amazon for contractors and switches. Believe it or not, I have more money...

Trying to understand electricity sometimes is like trying to understand a woman (no offense to any women that may read this) but how does all that not come into play when your ground and neutral wires are bonded at the neutral buss in the service panel? I don't understand how the neutral carries...

The only problem with nuts and bolts is that you will have a lot of work I you need to replace something. Instead of just disconnecting the one piece of faulty equipment and swapping it out, you now have to dismantle almost your entire rig just to swap out a ssr, or contractor or whatever, just...

The way mine is set up is my strike water and sparge water is in the HLT along with the water level to cover the herms coil, could have gone to sparge and the water level dropped, not to mention the amount of water that is in the pump an lines, I've almost done it too. I now have float switches...

Just make sure you use a continuity tester before you mount it to make sure you are mounting it the correct way. The one I received had to be mounted in the downward position. Really all it is is a magnetic switch, so if it switches the opposite way of how it is mounted, the water level will...

I got the same (looking) float switch from eBay for 8 bucks. The only down side is they come from hong kong, so don't be in a hurry, but mine work just fine.

Since I was only half way through building mine and decided I was going to build another one that made things a little cleaner inside, I'll have to steal your idea for my next build, thank you!

I've go one in mine and so far so good, but only 1 batch, brewing next week so I'll update after that if there is any change. I also mounted a din rail mount 12v transformer on the inside of my control panel to power the switch. I have one in my HLT and one in my BK, both are wired to 12v red...

I know they are a little pricy, but Rota-broaches work really well, I use them all the time at work, so I have a couple of sets. Clean holes without all the hassle of a step drill. Me personally, I just went with about 2" up from the first rib. I wasn't too overly concerned with placement as I...

How many amps is your fan pulling? Looks like your pid will handle up to 3 amps on the main output, if the fan is lower than that, why not eliminate the ssr? If your fan is wired through the ssr, I don't understand why the ssr is not shutting the fan off????

Here are two diagrams that PJ sent to me 3 wire feed 4 wire feed Hope this helps

I do almost the same, but I will heat like I said 10 or 12 gallons, depending on calculations I what I and brewing, grain bill, etc, after I mash in, I'll add some cold water also til I hit my herms temp, which is usually 4 degrees higher than what I want the mash temp at, in the end, this gives...