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Old 03-27-2007, 12:40 AM   #1
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Default Multiple - Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: Pacman (see note)
Yeast Starter: Absolutely
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.070
Final Gravity: 1.018
IBU: 67.4
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 4.8
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 10 at 63 degrees

13 Pounds 2-row (US)
6 ounces Thomas Fawcett amber malt.

.75 Warrior hops 16.4% AA (60 minutes) SEE NOTES ON HOPPING!
.50 Amarillo Gold 8.5% (35 minutes)
.50 Simcoe 12% (30 minutes)
.50 Simcoe 12% Dry hop
1.00 Amarillo Gold Dry hop
Irish Moss ( 1 tsp with 15 minutes left in the boil)

Continuous hopping! Add 1/2 the warrior at 60 minutes and then add a little at a time until 35 minutes. AT 35 minutes, mix the amarillo and simcoe together and add a little at a time until you are at 0. Try to time the additions so that you end up with a few hops still at 0 minutes.

Pacman yeast used- took the f.g. to 1.010!

Hops were added as continous- first warrior only for the first 25 minutes just a few pellets at a time, then remainder all mixed together and continuosly added, starting at 35 minutes.
Beer turned out fantastic!
dfhextract.bsm

dfhagrecipes.bsm

__________________________________________________ ________________________________________'
Extract recipe:

DFH clone

Batch Size: 5.00 gal
Boil Size: 2.5 gal
Estimated OG: 1.072 SG
Estimated Color: 13.1 SRM
Estimated IBU: 49.8 IBU

Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:

Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.5 lbs Pale Liquid Extract (8.0 SRM) Extract 90.83 %
1 lbs Caramel/Crystal Malt 40L (40.0 SRM) Grain 9.17 %

1.25 oz Warrior [15.00 %] (60 min) Hops 26.7 IBU
(Read notes!)

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (35 min) Hops 10.0 IBU
1.00 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (30 min) Hops 13.1 IBU
(Read notes!

1.00 oz Amarillo Gold [8.50 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops
0.50 oz Simcoe [12.00 %] (Dry Hop 7 days) Hops

Notes:

Pacman yeast used, but any clean well attenuating yeast can be used. Try WLP001, Nottingham, or 1056 if pacman is not available.

Hops were added as continuous first warrior for the first 25 minutes ( approximately half at 60 minutes, then a little bit at a time until 35 minutes was left in the boil). Then the rest of the hops were mixed together, and added continuously at 35 minutes.

You can use dry malt extract instead of the liquid if you=d like- use 8 pounds of DME instead.

Directions:


Steep the crystal in a grain bag in 2.5 gallons of water at 150-155 degrees for 20 minutes. Remove the grains, and discard them. Bring that Atea@ to a boil. When it is boiling, remove it from the heat (take it OFF the burner!) And stir in the LME. Put it back on the burner, and bring it to a boil. When it is boiling, add approximately half of the warrior hops you have. Set the timer for 60 minutes. After that, continue adding a pellet or two or five, every minute or so, until there is 35 minutes left on your timer. Try to time it so you are out of warrior pellets at 35 minutes left. Mix the rest of the hops together in a bowl. When you have 35 minutes left, start adding those hops just a few at a time, trying to end with the last of them when your timer hits 0 and you turn the flame off. Chill the wort rapidly, add to your fermenter, and top up to 5 gallons with cool water. Check the temperature to ensure it is around 70 degrees, and pitch a neutral yeast like American ale yeast (1056), or dry yeast like nottingham or safale s05. Ferment until completely done, and then allow to rest. Two weeks is pretty good. Then, rack to a clean 5 gallon carboy and dry hop with the dryhopping hops. You can either just put them into the fermenter and rack onto them, or use a hops bag if you=d like. Just don=t pack them tightly, you want the beer to be in contact with the hops. Use two or three bags if you need them. After about a week, you can rack to a bottling bucket avoiding the hops chunks, and bottle. Prime as usual, with approx. 3.5- 4 ounces priming sugar for 5 gallons of beer. You may have less than 5 gallons, due to the hops sucking up some of the beer, that=s why 3.5-4 ounces is a good bet.

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Last edited by Yooper; 11-18-2009 at 01:34 PM. Reason: notes were confusing!
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Old 03-27-2007, 01:30 AM   #2
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How do we know if this is any good?

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Old 03-27-2007, 01:34 AM   #3
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Thanks for posting this... I'll give it a try soon.

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Old 04-02-2007, 09:25 PM   #4
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Can you still get Pacman yeast..??

I know rogue uses it exclusively but I thought for public it was limited time only.

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Old 04-02-2007, 09:33 PM   #5
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not sure if wyeast is still selling this (I think it was only til new years.) but I have had good luck with either Wyeast 1172 or White Labs 041 for any recipe that calls for pacman.

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Old 04-05-2007, 11:55 PM   #6
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I'm ordering the ingredients for a 15 gallon version of this one.

The Brew 365 recipe calls for 6 oz of English amber malt, and Yooper's calls for 6 oz of Marris Otter. I've got some Carapils and Crystal 60 on hand. Do you think it'd be out of line to use about a 60/40 mix of Carapils and Crystal 60 instead of the amber malt? I know I'll be adding a touch more unfermentable sugar to the mix, but it doesn't seem terribly significant.

Per the Brew 365 webpage, the amber malt is "just to add a bit of interest." Seems to me that a little crystal would accomplish about the same thing.

Thoughts?

EDIT:

Talked to Yooper in chat. She was so happy with her recipe, that she was hesitant to recommend any change. She did, however, agree that since it's such a small portion of the grain bill, my suggestion might work just fine. I'm going to give it a shot. I'll let you know how it turns out!

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Old 04-19-2007, 11:37 PM   #7
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Here's my variation. I used Tettnang instead of the Palisade and Glacier in the Brew 365 recipe since both varieties stem from Tettnang. This will be my first "steam powered" mash, so the mash steps are more involved than really required. I figure all those rests can't hurt since I want a dry finish, and I want to exercise my steam rig.

39 lbs Pale Malt (2 Row)
1 lbs Carapils
8.0 oz Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L

0.50 oz Amarillo Gold (First Wort Hop)
2.25 oz Warrior - Continuous Add - 60-35
1.00 oz Simcoe Continuous Add - 35-25
1.00 oz Amarillo Gold - Continous Add 25-0
1.50 oz Tettnang - Continuous Add 25-0
1.50 oz Amarillo Gold - Dry Hop
1.50 oz Simcoe - Dry Hop
1.50 oz Tettnang - Dry Hop

1 Pkgs Rogue PacMan Yeast (BIG starter)

Mash In: Add 60 qt of water at 90 F
Maltose Rest: Heat to 145 F over 20 min, rest 30 min
Saccharification: Heat to 155 F over 2 min, rest 60 min
Mash Out: Heat to 170 F over 2 min

Est Original Gravity: 1.073
Est Final Gravity: 1.014
Estimated Alcohol by Vol: 7.8 %
Bitterness: 53.0 IBU
Est Color: 6.5 SRM

EDIT: I'm SO disappointed. Apparently my PacMan smack pack was in a cold part of the fridge and froze. I tried making a starter with it, and it's dead. Instead, I'll be using some White Labs WLP002 English Ale yeast that I harvested a few months ago.

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Old 04-29-2007, 12:49 AM   #8
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I think this one's gonna turn out REALLY well. It's just about down to pitching temp now.

Check out my continuous hopping technique:



Dogfish Head ain't got nothin' on me!

EDIT:
SWEET! 80% Efficiency!!!

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Old 05-24-2007, 12:47 AM   #9
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Update: this recipe is AWESOME!!!

I just compared a hydrometer sample against a freshly poured DFH 60 that I was able to bring back from a trip to the east coast, and it was a dead ringer for color and aroma. Unfortunately, I got way better efficiency and attenuation than I expected, so the flavor of my brew has a slight alcohol twinge (which is surprisingly slight, considering it's over 8%!!!). I can't wait to keg, carbonate, and serve it!!!

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Old 05-25-2007, 12:24 AM   #10
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Wow- that sounds really good! Mine was 7.8% ABV, but it didn't seem like it. I made it again yesterday- not so good efficiency combined with making 5.5 gallons gave me an og of 1.061- which really might be ok for this beer, anyway. I wish I would have thought to FWH with amarillo- that would have been awesome!

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