After doing a little more research I have found that the pin valve connected to paintball tanks is made of solid brass. How is it that these can withstand the constant pressure but a brass compression joint couldn't?
Didn't you say, though, that you're getting a proper Co2 tank in a month? The adapter's just going to be $21 down the hole; if you're going to buy the regular tank, just bite the bullet and do it, you're got everything else already.
After doing a little more research I have found that the pin valve connected to paintball tanks is made of solid brass. How is it that these can withstand the constant pressure but a brass compression joint couldn't?
Pizzaman - Its all about wall thickness of the brass fitting. Smaller diameters w/ higher wall thickness can withstand more pressure.
Its also depends on exact material type too. The cheap fitting I saw at work blew at less than a 1000 psi.
Your fittings might be suitable. I am gun shy on brass and high pressure due to seeing it fail. I saw photos of a blown up brass fitting that spewed a toxic sealant into peoples faces and mouths.
For your benefit I looked on line, (McMaster-Carr) there are some rated for high pressure some are not. You just need to know what you got for fittings. You shouldn't use them at the limit. If you know 1800psi is typical for your tank. Use something at a factor of 2 or greater, like 3600psi.
I'm not trying to trash your set-up. I'm not too keen about using non-steel fittings with high pressures.
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Pizzaman - Its all about wall thickness of the brass fitting. Smaller diameters w/ higher wall thickness can withstand more pressure...
Sounds good. I tightened the bushing all the way so it's flush with the ufa, isolating the small nipple inside the female ends of the adapter and the bushing. That way the weakest point is made stronger by the reinforcement of the stronger parts. These pics show what I'm trying to say, and you can see the wall thickness of the bushing is fairly large going from 1/8" to 1/2" (unfortunately added an unwanted scratch to the ufa)
How do you get paintball CO2 bottles filled with food grade CO2, without refilling them yourself? As I understand it there are small amounts of lubricants in the CO2 used for non-food grade products.
FYI here is a paintball can adapter (pin valve type) for $7.50 Supply-N-Demand, LLC.
I just haven't gone this route yet until I can be certain I wont be ingesting lubricants from my CO2.
Also doesn't bottled CO2 have a max PSI of 850 or so due since it's a liquid below and a gas above that pressure? I got a bit lost a few pages ago in this thread when talking about 1000+ psi.
Last edited by opzo; 05-21-2009 at 12:28 AM.
Reason: afterthought
I bought the UFA I'm using similar to the supply-n-demand one listed above on ebay for $4, cost $7 with shipping. The only difference is mine is less expensive and looks sexier. I did use that lustreking link as well as other in researching building my own. I'll be filling my co2 tank at the same place everyone else fills their co2 for kegging: a welding shop or sporting goods store. Not sure why there would be any added lubricants in the co2, or how they would even get them in there. I'm not sure about the exact pressures of bottled co2, I know it is greater than 1000 though from what I've read on this forum and other sites.
I know plenty of people on this forum use those tire inflators with their portable keg setups. The only problem ever mentioned is that they let out a lot of co2 very quickly so you just have to be careful to not overpressurize. Other than that they will work fine if you don't mind paying $1-2 for each co2 cartridge, which can really add up quickly when you consider you probably need five cartridges to empty one keg.