New Giveaway - Wort Monster Conical Fermeneter!

Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > DIY Projects > Needing PICS of Danby converted kegerator door panel please..




Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 02-22-2013, 12:34 AM   #1
BansheeRider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BansheeRider's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,430
Liked 96 Times on 87 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default Needing PICS of Danby converted kegerator door panel please..

I am wanting to start my conversion but the door has me puzzled. I have a brand new Danby mini fridge model # DAR440BL. The door panel is glued all the way rather than screwed on.

I saw some threads where people mentioned cutting the shelves off the door rather than replacing the whole panel. I need some instructions/pics of this if anybody has them. I would rather replace the whole panel and screw a new one on if possible. Or if I can't I need some info on how to cut away the shelving making it look as clean as possible.

I want to have a clean looking kegerator in case some day I want to sell it. I am aware of how to install the tower. I am a bit puzzled over the door situation Thanks!



__________________

Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement.

BansheeRider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-22-2013, 05:56 PM   #2
nny2k
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Coatesville, PA
Posts: 14
Liked 6 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Following this thread now...

I will share what I learn as I have this fridge coming next Tuesday to convert as well. I'm planning to put a hole in the top for a tower and am cautious as I already ruined a magic chef where the diagram said there was no freon line.. well it was there and pfffttt goes the freon, in the trash goes the fridge

Good luck!



__________________
nny2k is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-22-2013, 07:21 PM   #3
BansheeRider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BansheeRider's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,430
Liked 96 Times on 87 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nny2k View Post
Following this thread now...

I will share what I learn as I have this fridge coming next Tuesday to convert as well. I'm planning to put a hole in the top for a tower and am cautious as I already ruined a magic chef where the diagram said there was no freon line.. well it was there and pfffttt goes the freon, in the trash goes the fridge

Good luck!
Wow that sucks! I think with the danby you are safe to drill in between the thermostat and back of the fridge. There is a line that runs in the front near the door. I would still make sure where that line is though. I am just wondering how to do the door without making it look like s**t.
__________________

Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement.

BansheeRider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-22-2013, 07:30 PM   #4
nny2k
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Coatesville, PA
Posts: 14
Liked 6 Times on 2 Posts
Likes Given: 1

Default

Did you see this thread? kegerator-conversion-danby-dar440bl-98779

Some good ideas/suggestions on how to handle the glued door.

On the last page the door has a white board on the inside that looks pretty awesome!

__________________
nny2k is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-22-2013, 08:01 PM   #5
BansheeRider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BansheeRider's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,430
Liked 96 Times on 87 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by nny2k View Post
Did you see this thread? kegerator-conversion-danby-dar440bl-98779

Some good ideas/suggestions on how to handle the glued door.

On the last page the door has a white board on the inside that looks pretty awesome!
Yes I've read that thread like 10 times I saw the white board for the door but there are no detailed instructions. I am a visual learner and am a bit nervous about screwing this up. I messaged the person who did the mod so hopefully they respond.
__________________

Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement.

BansheeRider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-23-2013, 02:42 PM   #6
finlayj
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Pittsburgh, PA
Posts: 92
Liked 1 Times on 1 Posts
Likes Given: 2

Default

I did this a month or so ago.

I took a box cutter and went around the door frame. Be careful to leave a lip, because you'll want to use the whiteboard method.

So I cut out the door, then basically scooped and cut out the foam insulation so the white board would fit.

I cut the whiteboard to size, then put it into door. I bought a simple foam crack filler for 1 inch applications. Stick the extender tube into the space between the lip you created and the whiteboard. It will expand and fill.

Be sure to wipe away any excess, as it will harden quickly and be difficult to remove.

Sorry, don't really have any pictures of the process.

__________________

Primary: none
Secondary: Pumpkin Porter
Bottled: Dunkle, English Bitter, Imperial Blonde Ale, Chocolate Maple Porter, Edwort's Apfelwein.
On Deck: Belgian Tripel and Everyday IPA

finlayj is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-23-2013, 03:34 PM   #7
BansheeRider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BansheeRider's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,430
Liked 96 Times on 87 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by finlayj View Post
I did this a month or so ago.

I took a box cutter and went around the door frame. Be careful to leave a lip, because you'll want to use the whiteboard method.

So I cut out the door, then basically scooped and cut out the foam insulation so the white board would fit.

I cut the whiteboard to size, then put it into door. I bought a simple foam crack filler for 1 inch applications. Stick the extender tube into the space between the lip you created and the whiteboard. It will expand and fill.

Be sure to wipe away any excess, as it will harden quickly and be difficult to remove.

Sorry, don't really have any pictures of the process.
Thanks! Your process sounds easy. Can you take a picture of your door and exactly where you cut? I want to get a general idea where to cut and how much lip to have.

How hard was it to cut with a box cutter? I have a dremel I can use if that would be easier.
__________________

Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement.

BansheeRider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-27-2013, 04:28 PM   #8
HomeBrewLou
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: NYC, New York
Posts: 12
Default

I have this same fridge and was going to use it for fermenting with a temperature controller. I might make it a kegerator down the road. I want to pull the shelving on the door out as well and have a lot of the same concerns. Anything back from the PM?

__________________
HomeBrewLou is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 02-27-2013, 07:32 PM   #9
BansheeRider
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
 
BansheeRider's Avatar
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 1,430
Liked 96 Times on 87 Posts
Likes Given: 9

Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by HomeBrewLou View Post
I have this same fridge and was going to use it for fermenting with a temperature controller. I might make it a kegerator down the road. I want to pull the shelving on the door out as well and have a lot of the same concerns. Anything back from the PM?
I asked like 3 people and all used a dremel to cut around the shelves. Shave off some foam so it's flat then put some type of board on it. I'm gonna try dry erase board so I can write on it.
__________________

Good judgement comes from experience, experience comes from bad judgement.

BansheeRider is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Old 03-15-2013, 08:00 PM   #10
msknapp0182
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Recipes 
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Posts: 6
Default

I just bought the danby DAR440 a few weeks ago and ran into the same problem. The older models had the door pannel screwed in and now danby glues in the door liner. I took several measurements and found that you hardly need and modification at all. There is NO NEED to remove the whole door liner.The less cutting you can do the better. Any of the foam that you expose by cutting the liner needs to be sealed so that you don't grow mold and mildew on the foam. Keep in mind that that foam is your insulation for the unit as well, by removing it all your door will be as insulated as a bed sheet. I bought white Rust-oleum appliance epoxy spray paint from Lowes (cost like $4), and taped off the areas i didnt want paint on. You can also just spray some onto a paper plate and apply it with a brush if you want. You want to put a few coats on it. Whats great about the appliance epoxy is that it is moisture resistant and hardens as it drys. After a few coats of that the foam is protected from moisture, worked great. I used something like a dremel tool to do the simple cuts, you could also use a good utility knife. Here are some pics.











__________________
msknapp0182 is offline
 
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Reply


Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Thread Tools
Display Modes


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Danby DAR440 Door Panel is glued in place beerguy2009 DIY Projects 16 04-22-2013 12:24 AM
kegerator inner door panel? wickman6 DIY Projects 10 09-16-2012 01:56 PM
Standard 2 door fridge/freezer combo to single door kegerator and ferm chamber Tzarmek DIY Projects 6 04-20-2012 12:41 AM
Mounting tap handles through door of Danby 4.4cf fridge wascostreet Bottling/Kegging 3 05-19-2010 10:41 PM
Kegerator - Converted Chest Freezer (pics) Atl300zx DIY Projects 21 05-13-2009 11:30 PM