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Old 11-15-2012, 09:09 PM   #11
JuanMoore
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Originally Posted by mendozer View Post
I went to Harbor Freight for the 1/4" ball valves and quick disconnect;

That three piece setup you see on the right is the incoming pieces from the CO2 tank.

The disconnect on the outside makes it easier for maintenance for tank removal. plus i saw the disconnects and they were so cheap so I had to do it b/c it looked like a cool idea
FWIW I had issues using that type of QD in my system. They will leak slightly if the hose puts any lateral pressure on the fitting, which can be hard to avoid. Took me quite a while to track down the problem since I was pulling everything out to test for leaks, and not finding any. It was only when everything was tucked away with the hoses coiled that there was lateral pressure on the fitting, creating the slow leak.

Just a heads up to maybe save you all the frustration I went through.


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Old 11-15-2012, 11:18 PM   #12
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Connecting them together doesn't change the pressure rating. No matter how many of them are connected together, the applied pressure should never exceed 300 psi. You need to reduce the tank pressure with a primary regulator first.

Ya that's kinda what I figured, oh well worth a shot.


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Old 11-16-2012, 05:37 AM   #13
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I had one leaking issue and that was due to a bad relief valve. I regularly spray starsan into posts and the QD with no visible leaking

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Old 11-16-2012, 04:58 PM   #14
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which gauges did you use? I was looking at them on Surplus and I got lost
Also how is everything holding up?

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Old 11-17-2012, 05:19 AM   #15
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Looks good, but it's a leaker for sure.
Those little HF ball vales look like the bodies are one-piece, but they're not. They are pressed together and leak like a bitch.
The QD is a bad idea... those are known slow leakers too.
You'll nee a main reg at the bottle, then you can feed your secondaries.
Oh, and the secondaries will vent excess gas (when you turn down the pressure, it will vent the excess). You should install check valves at all the of the regulator "out" ports.
Once you get it gassed up, spray it with soapy water and you will see.
Be aware though... high pressure leaks are not detectable with soapy water (it pushes the soapy water away without making bubbles). For HP tests, you'll need to submerge the HP reg.
I know this because I made almost the exact same setup myself. It was a gas guzzling nightmare.
Sorry.

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Old 11-18-2012, 12:04 AM   #16
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Looks good, but it's a leaker for sure.
Those little HF ball vales look like the bodies are one-piece, but they're not. They are pressed together and leak like a bitch.
The QD is a bad idea... those are known slow leakers too.
You'll nee a main reg at the bottle, then you can feed your secondaries.
Oh, and the secondaries will vent excess gas (when you turn down the pressure, it will vent the excess). You should install check valves at all the of the regulator "out" ports.
Once you get it gassed up, spray it with soapy water and you will see.
Be aware though... high pressure leaks are not detectable with soapy water (it pushes the soapy water away without making bubbles). For HP tests, you'll need to submerge the HP reg.
I know this because I made almost the exact same setup myself. It was a gas guzzling nightmare.
Sorry.
like i said before, i had one surprisingly short tank life once due to a bad relief valve on my keg. after that, everything's fine. i tested all my bodies and ports with Starsan and no leaks were detected. I do have check valves on my gas lines as well. and my QD doesn't leak either according to my regular tests (i spray everything down every other month or so. After my initial tank, everything's still fine.

I know HF is cheap ****, but maybe some are made well and others aren't, just like every other cheap thing.

Some Kias from the 90s are still running after all
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Old 11-20-2012, 05:37 AM   #17
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If I wanted a set up like the one pictured above, could I also add a high pressure gauge to one end and a high pressure hose from the other end to the tank?

Something like this http://www.kegkits.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=JO60-H4-K4H4BC&Category_Code=WMReg-4
All of this depends entirely on which CO2 regulators you use.

For example, primary & secondary regulators manufactured by TapRite use the same internal poppet valve assembly and primary & secondary regulators manufactured by Chudnow use the same poppet valve assembly. Secondary regulators from either of these manufacturers can be used as primary regulators. But Cornelius and Norgren secondary regulators can-not be used as primary regulators because they can't handle the additional pressure.

Harbor Freight is great for vises and hand tools that are not used much but per a friend of mine who started packaging their regulators with the lemonaide smashers he sells, they suck and he can't afford to replace the failures, so now he packages Chudnow regulators with his smashers.
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Old 11-22-2012, 03:57 AM   #18
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good to know about those reg brands.

I don't trust HF with any powered or moving parts. but inanimate things like hand tools like you said (or in this case, simple ball valves) i trust em. they're made in China and so are the $10 ones at Lowes!

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Old 11-22-2012, 04:56 PM   #19
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Yeah the only difference between the tap right primary and secondaries is that the high side has left hand thread in the primary model and right hand on the secondary model. My existing primary regulator was right hand thread so to add another in line in needed to use their secondary model. All regulators should be rated and have the rating listed in the body. You should never exceed that pressure

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Old 01-21-2013, 01:23 AM   #20
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Hey mendozer, how is your regulator holding up?



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